1. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya

The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87.

From the Severaya summit:

  • descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
  • then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya).

From the Glavnaya summit:

  • descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
  • traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
  • from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya).

Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

The traverse takes 6-7 hours from bivouac to bivouac.

Map of Kukryniksy Traverse

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Sources

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