ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

28 30

CATEGORY — rock climbing
REGION — KIChIK-ALAI ridge
PEAK — KUKRYNIKOSOV (S) (4160 m) first ascent via the north face of the eastern ridge (combined)
PROPOSED cat. diff. — 3B
Elevation gain — 630 m Length of sections with R0–R6 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
PITOONS DRIVEN: For belaying and creating intermediate belay anchors: rock — 10 ice — 4
Total climbing time (ascent) — 6.5 hours
Overnight stops on the route — NONE
PARTICIPANTS:
1. Bochkov Vladimir Viktorovich — II sports category
2. Samokotin Yuri Timofeevich — II sports category
COACH: Master of Sports MS LEVIN
DATE of departure and return: July 28, 1981

CHELYABINSK REGION ALPINISM FEDERATION

1981

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Date, time	Section, steepness	Length, m	Terrain characteristics	Cat. diff.	Terrain condition	Weather conditions	Rock/ice pitons
28.07. 7:30–14:00	R0–R1 45°	220	Slope with bergschrund	III	Firn, ice; traverse +8° early morning in crampons		– / 1
	R1–R2 50°	140	Couloir	III+	Ice, many embedded live rocks	Calm, clear	– / 3
	R2–R3 35°	520	Ridge	III	Destroyed, loose rocks with snow and ice accretion	«—»	– / –
	R3–R4 50°	40	Wall	III+	Very destroyed rock	«—»	– / 3
	R4–R5 60°	100	Wall	1У+	Rocks are fragile. Hard to find a place for belay	+14°	7 / –
	R5–R6 35°	80	Summit	II+	Brittle rocks, covered with ice	«—»	– / –
							10 / 4

DESCENT: along the southern ridge, then left-down into the Suychikty gorge and along the moraine and glacier to the left of the Kievyalanka peak.

Classification proposals

The described route is undoubtedly more complex than the first 3B in this region — 3B N. ridge of Kievyalanka. It is also more complex than the first 4A in this region — 4A N. ridge of Peak 40 Years of Soviet Army. The snow-ice slope is comparable to a similar key section on Peak Boris Ruchyev, but the rocky ridge is an order of magnitude more complex. Overall, the route is quite comparable to the 4A cat. diff. route on Peak Kirov via the saddle with Peak Smena (Kyrgyz Ala-Too) — it is also beautiful, logical, and diverse.

We request to include in the KTMGV USSR: KUKRYNIKOSOV-1 (4160 m) 3B combined via the north face of the eastern ridge, V. Bochkov, 1981.

Approach

a) Osh — Iski-Naukat — scheduled buses to Kyzyl-Kiya — 36 km. b) Iski-Naukat — Telman collective farm — bus from the bus station — 11 km. c) Telman collective farm — Chapayev collective farm — Karagoy junction — Iskinaucat Forest Enterprise — camp under Mazara — 50 km.

(1) Photo shooting point 1 and so on.