80. Tepli Main via Southwest by the couloir of the West ridge

The route is combined A. Zyuzina, cat. 3B, fig. 88, 89, 109, 115, 117. Length 700–900 m, time 9–12 h. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people):

• Take the cable car to the village of Nar.
• Ascend along the dirt road through the Lyia-don river gorge to the village of Liia.
• Continue along the trail, pass the mineral spring, and follow along the left bank of the Lyadon river to a green meadow with a mineral spring. From here:
• Ascend via the moraines to the right onto the Southwestern Tepi Glacier.
• Set up the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier or near a small lakelet under the slopes of Komlagat peak.

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
2. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
3. Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• 5 category – 52 m.
• 6 category – 27 m.

Ascent log.

1. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
2. Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
3. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
7. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
8. Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
9. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
3. Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:

• 4–5 — 40 m
• 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
• chimney — 60°
• ridge — 45°

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent.
4. Route type - rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route - none.
7. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge.
3. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. Nature of the route – rocky.
5. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route – none.
7. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 75°;
• entire route: 65°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky ridge; Classification section № 2.8 96
2. Tbau East (2832 m), via the Eastern edge of the Southeast bastion.
3. 5B category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS) Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 150 m. Average steepness: — main part of the route: 75°