Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Kazbek region, Kauridon gorge, KMGV section number - 2.8.
2. Pik Pamyati Karmadontsev; 3933 m, via North-West buttresses of North-East ridge.
3. Proposed category: 2A; first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length is about 2000 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty is 10 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route is about 50°.
• entire route is about 30°.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tepli region, classification section number 2.8.
2. Pakota North (3505 m) – from the North.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 500 m. Length of sections with 4 category of difficulty — 10 m. Average steepness:

• key sections — 70°
• entire route — 30°

6. Hooks left on the route — none.

48

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the summit of Ortsveri (4220 m) via the North Face, category 3B. The Kazbek high-altitude region closes the eastern part of the Central section of the Greater Caucasus. The most significant peaks in the region are Jimarai-Khokh, Maili-Khokh, Spartak Peak, and Kazbek, forming a mountain chain from west to east, creating the Lateral Ridge of the Greater Caucasus, which is located north of the Main Ridge and significantly surpasses it in terms of absolute altitude. The Orctveri summit is located directly south of Kazbek (5048 m) on the southeastern spur of Spartak Peak. The Orctveri massif (4220 m), like the surrounding massifs, is composed of Kazbek effusives of the andesite type and possibly represents a remnant of a tertiary volcano crater, with the northern edge being the Kazbek summit cone. Between the Kazbek and Orctveri massifs lies the Gergeti Glacier (also known as the Ortsveri Glacier), which feeds the Chkheri River, which flows into the Terek River near the village of Kazbegi. The glacier flows along the base of the North Face of Orctveri, from which smaller hanging glaciers flow, one of which descends from the Ortsveri pass, located northwest of Orctveri on the ridge connecting it to Spartak Peak.

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features:

• To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls.
• To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:

To the Alpinism Federation of Russia.

The Classification Commission of the FSR of Alania sends a report on the first ascent made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz to the peak Kursantov (3915 m) via the Southwest Ridge on August 29, 2011. The route taken is preliminarily assessed as 1B rock.

REPORT

On the first ascent to peak Kursantov (3915 m) via the Southwest Ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on August 29, 2011. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich. address: 362035 RSO-Alania, Vladikavkaz, pr. Kosta — 273/69 (uvl53@yandex.ru)

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number — 2.8.
2. Kuardjin East (2600 m); via the South wall of the East ridge.
3. Proposed 3A category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock climbing.
5. Route height difference – 320 m. Length of the wall part – 415 m. Total route length – 715 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of key sections 80–90°.
6. Pitons left on the route – 5.
7. Team's working hours – 8 hours; days – 2.

Peak Costa

3628 m R10

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Kormilina via the Northwest Ridge, category 2A, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, from July 5 to 6, 2019.

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Baddon river gorge (right tributary of the Ardon river); section number in the Classification 2.8.
2. p. Kvarcevyy (peak Mukhina East ridge) — 3577 m; from the South up the South-East counterfort.
3. Category 1B; first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain — 450 m. Length about 900 m. Steepness of key sections is 80°. Average steepness of the whole route is 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 1.

105. Kariu via Northwest Ridge

Rocky route by V. Ivanova, 3A, fig. 2, 88, 139, 140. Length: 2000–2500 m. Time: 8–10 hours. Approach:

• From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–6 people), take a bus via TKM to Zintsar village. From Vladikavkaz – 2 hours.
• At the village, turn left, cross the Ardon River by bridge, and drive along a dirt road to Urs village, above which the ancient Tsamatskaya fortress is situated.
• From the village, turn left and ascend via a trail, to the right of the fortress, to a grassy pasture plateau (1–1.5 hours from Urs).

Attention: there is no water above Urs village! Route:

• Across the pasture plateau, approach the right side of a narrow couloir-gully running along the South wall of the Northwest ridge of Kariu peak, 200 m to the right of a white vein.