Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the Western ridge.
4. Estimated category complexity 2B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m — including: the actual wall section — 40 m. Total route length — 1200 m. Length of the wall section — 60 m. Of which: category 5 complexity — 2 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.
6. Pitons hammered on the route: rock — 6/0.
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 6/1.
8. Overnight stays: none.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

Description of the First Ascent Route

To the summit of Peak Айлама (Ailama) via the Western spur of the South wall, climbed on July 20-25, 1966, by a team from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society. Ailama is located in the Main Caucasus Range. To the west of the summit, beyond the Unamusso pass ("Бессовестный" or "Shameless"), lies Peak Нуам-Куам (Nuam-Kuam), with a ridge connecting it to the summit of Восточная Шхара (Eastern Shkhara) via peaks 4250 m and 4100 m. Beyond the so-called "saw" of Ailama, the ridge turns south towards the summit of Цурунгал (Tsurungal), and then eastwards through peaks Черная Незнакомка (Black Stranger, пик Алеши Джапаридзе or Aliocha Djaparidze Peak) and Белая Незнакомка (White Stranger) to the Шерри–Вцек (Sherri-Vtsek) pass. The Ailama ridge stretches for a considerable distance. The western ridge has a steepness of up to 55° in its lower half and is characterized by a system of snow and ice undulations with steepness ranging from 25° to 75° in its upper part. The eastern ridge of the summit is primarily rocky and is known as the "Pила Айламы" (Ailama Saw), indicating its highly serrated nature. Along the entire length of the massif's ridge, steep walls with significant relative heights drop to the north and south; those to the north are mostly snow and ice, while those to the south are more rocky. Due to the remoteness of this mountain region from permanent alpine camps, until 1965, only a few sports groups, always consisting of high-class climbers, ascended Ailama. Most of these groups followed the ridge of the massif, undertaking extensive traverses of the crest.

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

Participants of Burkhanov

Participants:

1. BERDOTIN GENNADIY FEDOROVICH — CMS, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society (leader)
2. AKIMOV NIKOLAY ALEKSANDROVICH — 1st sports category, INSTRUCTOR, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society

Coach:

LEVIN MIKHAIL SEMENOVICH — MS, SENIOR INSTRUCTOR Departure on the route — August 11, 1978, Return — August 15, 1978

Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multidisciplinary Climbing Club "FRILINE" from Essentuki

To the summit of Khazni-Bashi

via the south ridge and southwest wall Presumably 4B category of difficulty Team Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2019 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59, Popov M.L. 8 928 265-71-30 mikl_popov@inbox.ru

36. Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
• Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
• Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
• Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
• Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
• Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
• Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Suaryk gorge.
3. Suaryk Eastern peak, via the center of the NE wall, 950 m.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 625 m, route length 895 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty is 380 m. Average slope of the route is 63°. Average slope of the wall section is 74°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 92, bolt — 7, chocks — 58. Left behind: rock — 7, bolt — 1.

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)