Central North Caucasus

23-year-old guide Temur Kurdiani made the first solo ascent of the mixed 5A/M5+ route to the 4,869-meter summit, tackling 80-degree ice and vertical granite in just 4 hours.

According to information from mountain.ru and planetmountain.com: 23-year-old guide and alpinist Temur Kurdiani completed a solo first ascent of a route. The line follows steep, mixed terrain, and the climber graded the difficulty at 5A/M5+. Starting at 4000 meters, the ascent climbs the wall to 4700, where it joins the classic route all the way to the summit at 4869 m. The climb took just 4 hours, despite encountering sections of 80-degree ice and vertical granite. ![](https://summitx.info/media/1/lweRCxxrjJ6xkntiaPFoHsQenFkIyRwP

Report on the ascent to the summit of Dashtsar via the 2A category difficulty route on the terraces of the West wall.

REPORT ON ASCENT TO DASHTSAR PEAK VIA THE TERRACES OF THE WEST WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY. By the team of the Climbing Camps Management from June 2, 2024, to June 2, 2024. I. Ascent Passport | Item No. | 1. General Information | | | :----------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich, Candidate for Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Gumashvili V.L., 3rd sports rank; Barsukova E.A., 3rd sports rank. | | 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich, Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Climbing Camps Management | | 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | | |

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya 1Bz category of difficulty by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

Report on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024. I. Climbing Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. | | 1.4 | Organization | FATUM CAT | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | | |

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau North-Western, category 1B, by the FATUM Climbing Team on February 14, 2024.

REPORT on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024 I. Climbing Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :---: | :-----------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |

Ascent of Lhotse by a Japanese team via the South Ridge in 1981, description of the route and key events of the expedition.

1981

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Shauhoh via the 10th buttress in the ridge, Caucasus, 4th category of difficulty, combined route.

86 Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge Anoshin G.G. Caucasus 2.8 PASSPORT Technical category Caucasus, Genaldon gorge, Kolka glacier Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent Elevation gain — 1400 m. Height of rock sections: category 2 — 100 m, category 3 — 590 m, category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 130 m. Height of snow-ice ridge: category 2 — 180 m, category 3 — 120 m. Average slope: rock part of the route — 45°, ice ridge — 30–35° No pitons were left on the route previously

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Pau-khokh (4646 m) via the north edge, one of the most challenging routes in the mountains of North Ossetia, with a detailed description of the path and necessary equipment.

General Description of the Peak and its Location The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as: Jimarai-khokh Shau-khokh Suatisi-khokh Zeigalan-khokh Tsiti-khokh Khirkhaten

Description of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) along the eastern ridge, complexity category 2B, route condition as of September 2015: snow-ice, without technically difficult rock sections.

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015: snow-ice rock sections do not present technical difficulties. Approaches Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post: A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located There are places for tents and water

Description of a Category 2 difficulty route to the summit of Chach-Khokh (4207 m) via the eastern ridge from Chach valley with a detailed analysis of the route and necessary equipment.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified. Day 1 The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.