Central North Caucasus

Report on the second ascent of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Adyrsu (4370 m) via the Southwest wall through the central bastion in 2008.

Report on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of: Privalov S.A. - leader Olkhovikov A.V. Contacts AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 [email protected], tel. 8-9272527095 [email protected], tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Adyrsu (4370 m) via the Southwest wall through the central bastion in 2008.

8-2.4.1.173 Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from the Chipperazau Pass to the Ortokara peak Report on the first ascent to the Adyrsu peak (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion in the period from July 19 to July 22, 2008 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of: Monaenkov E.I. - leader Bulocnikov V.S. - participant Sandin S.A. - participant Table of Contents Climbing passport (Appendix No. 1) — 3 General view photo of the route — 5

Ascent to the summit Adyr-Su-bashi (4370 m) from Granovskiy pass, difficulty category 4A, mostly rocky-icy route.

[^0] [^0]: 1. summit preliminary The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi, category 4A, via the Granovskiy Pass, elevation 4370 m. The nature of the route is predominantly rocky and icy. The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi is located in the northern Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range. Several ridges lead to the summit, including the southern one, descending to the Granovskiy Pass. Day 1 Approaches to the Granovskiy Pass are made: via the Mestia trail,

Ascent to the peak of Evgenia Medvedeva via the SW wall with a detour to the right around the "gendarme" in the middle part of the wall.

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Ascent to the summit of Adyrsu via the North Buttress of the West Ridge, a combined route of 3B category of difficulty.

Adyrsu via the Northern counterfort of the Western edge (combined route by Yu. Kuznetsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullutau” alplager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper plateau of the Severny Adyrsu glacier with the initial bivouac on the left-bank morene of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 43. In the upper part of the cirque, cross the Severny Adyrsu glacier (closed crevasses) and approach under the slope of the ice-and-snow couloir on the left side — at the base of the Northern counterfort of the Western edge of Adyrsu peak. From the initial bivouac, 1.5–2 hours. From the glacier, after passing the bergschrund: 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow couloir, then traverse 40 m up — left through this couloir,

Description of the climbing route to the summit Alyr-Su-Bashi (4370 m) via the north-western ridge, complexity category 3B.

AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m Route Description Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit: to the North to the Northwest to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: route description, key points, and climbing features.

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Ascent to the summit of Adyrsu via the Western spur of the Southern ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, duration 7-9 hours from the initial bivouac.

Adyrsu via the Western spur of the South Ridge (V. Vyal'tsev's combined route, Category III difficulty, Fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac in the Adyrsu hut is described in route 247. From the hut, descend left onto the Adyrsu Glacier, cross it, and exit onto the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail along the left-bank moraine to the base of the Western spur of the South Ridge of Adyrsu peak. From here, go up and left along the large scree at the base of the Western spur to the platforms near the Red Rocks. An initial bivouac is possible here. It takes 1-1.5 hours from the hut. From the platforms, bypass the Massive Sentinel on the left and ascend on the right side of the wide, gently sloping, and destroyed Western spur, which is simple but has scree in some places. Having passed the Big Sentinel head-on, descend from it to a snowy scree saddle. From the saddle, on the right side of a steep slab, approach the base of the 18-20-meter wall of the South Sentinel of the South Ridge of Adyrsu peak. From the platforms: Red Rocks - 3-3.5 hours. The further ascent along the South Ridge to the summit of Adyrsu is described in route 40. It takes 7-9 hours from the hut to the summit.