80. Tepli Main via Southwest by the couloir of the West ridge

The route is combined A. Zyuzina, cat. 3B, fig. 88, 89, 109, 115, 117. Length 700–900 m, time 9–12 h.

From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people):

Take the cable car to the village of Nar.
Ascend along the dirt road through the Lyia-don river gorge to the village of Liia.
Continue along the trail, pass the mineral spring, and follow along the left bank of the Lyadon river to a green meadow with a mineral spring.

From here:

Ascend via the moraines to the right onto the Southwestern Tepi Glacier.
Set up the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier or near a small lakelet under the slopes of Komlagat peak.
From the village of Liia, 5–7 h.

From the initial bivouac:

Traverse the Southwestern Tepi Glacier to approach the snowy-ice slope of the broad Southwestern couloir with numerous rocky outcrops.
Overcome the bergschrund and ascend a 300–400-meter snow-ice slope of increasing steepness in the couloir to reach the rocky belt.
Left of the center of the rocky belt, ascend 120–150 meters via simple to moderately difficult rocks in the corner-couloir (avalanches, loose rocks, piton belay).
Continue up a 600–700-meter ice-snow slope of the couloir between numerous rocky outcrops to reach the West ridge.
From here, ascend to the right and along the broad snowy 250–300-meter slope on the northern side of the West ridge, bypassing rocky rises on the left, to reach the snowy summit dome of Tepi peak.
Cairn on the rocks 15–20 m below the summit.
From the initial bivouac, 6–8 h.

Fig. 117. Tepli from the southwest

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