G. Agranovsky + 3 (19747)

14/VII. Gerka woke me up. Bouillon, tomatoes, and tea in the hall. We saw G. Solovyov, B. Talanov, and Lusya Agranovskaya off. We accompanied them to the outskirts. Clear and cool. Good mood. 5 am. On the trail, various memories come to mind… Under the glacier between І and П Zapadnaya - tea time. We leave at 10:30. At 1 pm - on the plateau under the route. Camp and plenty of food. The further path (Ovcharov V., 40 c.t.) to І Zapadnaya goes:

• across the plateau to a steep and wide avalanche slope located on the left side of the Northern wall of Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak;
• up the steep snowy slope of the avalanche (falling rocks!) bypass the crevice on the right and move up along the wall rocks to the stream;
• 8–10 m up the "ram's foreheads" along the stream;
• then 30–40 m across rocks of medium difficulty to the right onto a small site… We clearly see Ovcharov's path but prefer to exit to the northern counterfort of І Zapadnaya. On the right, through a wide snow-ice couloir. We don't have crampons (they are on the Ushba plateau), but it's worth trying the slope. The snow is dense. Steps are beaten perfectly - and in an hour Valentin and I reach the ridge. We'll go here tomorrow! We return to the tent where German and Alik are waiting for us. Tea. And here's the first night in a four-person sleeping bag - surprisingly spacious. 15/VII. We leave at 5:00. Valentin and I are first. Exiting onto the ridge along yesterday's tracks, we see that Gerka and Alik are also leaving the couloir - it's almost sunny. At 1 pm, difficult rocks begin - our backpacks are still very heavy, over twenty kilos.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route to peak Tamdykul (5450 m above sea level) — Eastern peak via the eastern ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: — elevation gain — 2250 m; — average steepness — 44°; — length of complex ice section — 45°, 1050 m; — length of complex rock section — 80°, 100 m;
5. Pitons used:

Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya. Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon. When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left. Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections. The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people

1. Class of ascent: technical.
2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.

Passport

1. Traverse class
2. Alay Range, Ak-Su valley, Pamir
3. Traverse peak A. Blok (East) — A. Blok (Main) — peak 4600 m — Ak-Su (North) — Ak-Su (Main)
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Length — 10,230 m Length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1040 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 61°, of which 6B category of difficulty — 85° (4600–4915)
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 223, bolted – 0, chocks – 234, ice – 18. Additional: rock – 21, bolted – 0, chocks – 6, ice – 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 103, days — 10
8. Overnights — all overnights are bivouac, on the ridge

ALPINISM SPORT CLUB named after A.S. DEMCHENKO MOSCOW CHAMPIONSHIP CSKA Team named after Demchenko Report on the ascent of Pik Tyсяchelеtia kreshcheniya Rusi (Kyrkchilta), 6A cat. difficulty, 4520 m via the left buttress of the eastern wall 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3
2. Pik 1000-letiya kreshcheniya Rusi (Kyrkchilta peak), 4520 m, via the left buttress of the eastern wall (Potankin's route 1991)
3. 6A cat. difficulty
4. Route type: rock

Report

on the second traverse of the peaks XX let Oktyabrya — Delone along the central counterfort, main ridge, from Akkem glacier, 5B category of difficulty (KTMGV #1.31) by the team of Altai Regional Sports Committee and Gorno-Altaisk Rescue Service of EMERCOM of Russia. Team leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category. 1996. PHOTO #2. Profile of the wall to the right of peak XX let Oktyabrya The photo was taken from Akkem glacier in 07.1994. Camera — "Smena-8M".

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.50 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley
2. Name of the summit: 1134 (Raiiz Northern) height: 1134 m, route: via the southwest slope.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B cat. diff., PP.
4. Nature of the route — winter.
5. Height difference of the route: 728 m
6. Length of the route: 2500 m
7. Length of sections with the highest cat. diff.:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent region — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, along the N wall of the E ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge; 1143.5 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls — Route length: rock/snow and ice. II — 350 m