Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m). The descent from p. Bezymyannyj to the saddle goes through rocks, but you can also go along the snowy slope. From the saddle, the route goes through a large gendarme, which is slightly below the summit of Vuanlo. Rocks of medium difficulty. Insurance is piton-based. From the gendarme, there is a slight descent down, then you need to pass 5 gendarmes of various shapes and difficulties, as well as 2 chimneys. The descent from the summit is to the Estonskiy pass. Having descended 200 m from the summit, it is necessary to set up a rappel. The descent from the pass is difficult: it goes to the glacier, a very steep slope, many loose rocks. For the descent, we had to drive in two ice screws. The glacier is open. Next, the descent goes along the left side of the river to the assault camp.

The following were left behind:

• 6 rock pitons
• 2 ice screws

The route meets the requirements of category 3B difficulty.

Group leader:

1. A. Svirskis
2. A. Baublis
3. L. Zakarevičius
4. A. Peishtaras

View of the traverse from the south

View of the route from the north

Chimney before p. Vuanlo

Part of the route before p. Bezymyannyj. View of p. Vuanlo and p. Bezymyannyj.