1.14
Ascent Passport
I. Technical category.
- Zarafshan ridge, Fann Mountains (northern part).
- Mirali peak, 5120 m, via the north face.
- Proposed: category 6B, first ascent.
- Elevation gain — 1540 m, length — 1800 m (3500–5040).
Length of sections with category 5–6B difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74° (3500–5040). Average steepness of the main sections:
- 75° (3500–4340)
- 80° (4340–4440)
- 85° (4470–4770)
- 75° (4870–5040)
Of these, category 6B difficulty:
- 355 m (3500–4340)
- 100 m (4340–4440)
- 250 m (4470–4770)
- 80 m (4870–5040)
Total — 785 m.
- Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors ice
| 364 | 2 | 180 | 82 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 0 | II | 7 |
- Team's moving hours: 104 hours and days — 9.
- Overnights: 1st — sitting on a platform cut out on an ice ledge;
2nd — half-lying on a platform cut out on an ice ledge; 3rd — sitting: four on a platform cut out on an ice ledge, two on a rock island; 4th — sitting: one on a platform cut out on an ice ledge, three on a rock ledge, two in a rock niche; 5–7th — lying on platforms cut out on an ice slab and snow-ice slopes; 8th — sitting on a platform cut out on an ice slab.
- Leader: Fevziev Rishad Fevzievich — Master of Sports.
Participants:
- Smirnov Gennadiy Konstantinovich — Master of Sports
- Valiulin Eduard Alexandrovich — Master of Sports
- Gornostaev Vladimir Vasilievich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Tishchenko Valery Ivanovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Murzin Alexander Vladimirovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
IО. Coach: Mumdzhi Timur Memetovich — Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist I category. II. Entry onto the route: April 20, 1982.
Summit: April 28, 1982. Descent: April 29, 1982.