- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing area — Fan Mountains.
- Summit Zamok via the center of the north face of Parandas shoulder, combined.
- Complexity category — 6A.
- Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m.
Length of sections with 5–6 cat. sl. — 950 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the shoulder 80°.
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Number of pitons: rock — 82/12 ice — 2/0 protection — 68/8 bolts — 0
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Number of travel hours — 39 h.
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Number of overnight stays — 3. One in a suspended platform-tent. 2 bivouacs.
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Leader Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich — MS. Telnov Alexander Alekseevich — CMS, Sakharov Konstantin Valentinovich — CMS, Komarov Viktor Vasilyevich — CMS.
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Team coach — Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich.
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Date of departure on the route July 23, 1989 summit July 25, 1989, return July 26, 1989
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Organization MOS VDFSO trade unions.
Leader, coach A.F. Vinokurov
Group route
5800 m.
3800 m. Group route.
Protocol
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Analysis of the ascent to v. Zamok via the center of the north face of Parandas shoulder July 27, 1989. Present: Announcer (signature) ogurets Vinokurov A.F. Marenyak V.P. Team members: Vinokurov A.F. MS — captain, team coach Komarov V.V. CMS Telnov A.A. CMS deputy captain Sakharov K.V. CMS
Heard: Team captain Vinokurov A.F.
When preparing for the ascent, they considered options for climbing objects. As team members, we were advised to ascend via the Western wall of v. Usandary and v. Vodkon, but we decided to choose a route via the bastion of Parandas (v. Zamok). This wall in the Aladdin's Lakes area was climbed quite recently, and its steep walls were interesting and challenging to pass. A preliminary review of the wall showed that it could be climbed even in harsh weather conditions that occurred in the area this year. Due to the complexity of organizing overnight stays on the wall, a platform-tent was taken, which limited the number of climbers to four.
The group started the approach on July 22, 1989. According to the tactical plan, it was planned to spend the night under the route, but then
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the Vinokurov–Telnov tandem left earlier and decided to climb a couple of ropes, breaking through the snow to the wall when approaching it. They succeeded. There were: frostbite to the extremities. But during the processing, they canceled the ascent due to wet snow. The next day, the group started the route at 7:00 and climbed the wall to the ridge of Parandas and the left part of the Western wall of v. Zamok in three overnight stays (2 overnight stays on the wall of v. Parandas).
The wall (key) part of the route via the center of the north face of v. Parandas represents steep, sometimes overhanging walls with a limited number of holds. Quite often, the path went through wet rocks. The vertical length of the route is ~550 m. The wall resembles routes on v. Chatyn along the diamond with less complexity in the upper part. But the number of holds is less than on the north face of v. Chatyn. Every day, in the second half of the day, it rained and snowed, which undoubtedly complicated the movement. This was the second ascent of the route.
The first overnight stays on the wall were at the site of the 2 overnight stays of the first ascenders. Based on the existing experience of ascents, it can be said that the route corresponds to 6A cat. sl. If the route length were greater, the complexity category might be more challenging.
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The tactical plan outlined below was implemented. The route was climbed with three overnight stays. The first two overnight stays were on the wall of Parandas shoulder, the third on the summit of Zamok. The first on the route worked Komarov, Telnov, Vinokurov, the last on the entire route worked Sakharov. All young participants are technically competent and physically well-prepared for complex ascents. The group had a normal moral climate. Everyone is ready to ascend routes with 6B cat. sl.
Question: Merlie V.P. — "Is the route rockfall-prone?" Vinokurov — "In the upper part of Parandas shoulder, there are almost sheer rocks, but this season most of them are covered with snow, which prevents falling, and besides, the wall is very steep and if rocks fell, they would fly at a fairly large distance from the wall."
Vinokurov — "Can the route be climbed by a team with a larger number of participants?" Vinokurov — "The route can be climbed by a group with a small number of participants, in this case, it is necessary to take care of additional overnight stay locations. In addition, unstable weather worsens movement on snow-covered ropes, usually at the end of the day. With a larger number of participants, this would have delayed the ascent."
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Komarov — "I am satisfied with the ascent and it was interesting, but was hindered by hand injuries sustained in the previous ascent, and the increased dampness of the route. I am glad that the representatives worked well on the route." Telnov — "I have climbed with Vinokurov before. With his correct participation, the ascent proceeds calmly and confidently. He coped with the leadership quite well. The route is undoubtedly 6 cat. sl. Parandas shoulder is very steep and complex. The counterfort on v. Zamok is significantly less complex." Sakharov — "I climbed the entire route last. When knocking out pitons, I had to work a bit, as there was not enough gear and it required more physical effort. The ascent was reliable. I am satisfied with the ascent." Merlie — "Were the pitons and protection difficult to knock out?" Sakharov — "Yes, the pitons were reliable." Merlie — "I have no complaints about the group, I just want to wish that in future seasons the radio equipment should be more reliable, as during some gatherings the reception was poor, and it would be difficult to establish communication if needed." Vinokurov. "Congratulations to the team on a good ascent and I enviously admire all participants and the leadership." Coach A. Vinokurov July 27, 1989 The protocol was kept by Voytenko I.V.