2014 Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude technical class Report on the ascent of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing team to Kyzyl-Asker peak (5842 m) via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace," first ascent, approximately 6B category. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A. Moscow 2014

Kyzyl-Asker via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent region: Tian Shan, Western Kok-Shaal-Too

Ascent Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau ridge, p. Kyzyl Asker.
3. Peak Kyzyl Asker 5842 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1490 m, wall part 1170 m, wall part length 1280 m, average steepness of the wall part 69–71° 4350–4800 — 82° 4800–5400 — 73–76° 5400–5550 — 45–50°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Tau ridge.
3. Peak — p. Krylya Sovetov via the north ridge.
4. Proposed category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1300 m. Length of sections with 3–4 category difficulty — 1750 m, 5 category difficulty — 480 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 43°, Entire route — 37°.

Panorama of the Researchers Glacier www.alpfederation.ru

3. Climbing Conditions and Tactics

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau region, like the entire Tian Shan, is characterized by:

• heavily fragmented rocks,
• ice collapses,
• an abundance of dry, powdery snow. In connection with this, it was necessary to prepare for overcoming rockfall-prone areas and for extensive ice and snow work. The weather in this region is not very stable. Often, in the second half of the day, it deteriorates, and clouds envelop the peaks of Chon-Tarasu, Dankov, and nearby peaks.

Peak Kabalchicha (5450 m)

(approx. 4A cat. dif.) CC.3. From the "Researchers" glacier turn left onto the "Koroleva" glacier, which is quite steep (30–35°), with a lot of clean ice, sticking to the right side as you move, we come out onto an ice plateau, climbing in crampons. Insurance on individual sections is hook-type, screw-in ice hooks tested during training sessions were used. From the glacier, climb to the left along destroyed and icy rocks, along sheer walls, to a snowy-ice couloir, insurance using ledges. This section was covered in 5 hours in bad weather. The couloir is 30–40° steep, местами purely icy, insurance is hook-type, walk in crampons, the ascent takes 4 hours. In the upper part, the couloir ends with a wall (5–6 m) heavily destroyed, steep and covered with snow, the first one passes by climbing, using footholds, 2 rock hooks are hammered in, the rest with top rope insurance on a hung rope. The ascent took 1.5 hours. Exit left onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 25–30° (insurance on 2 ropes through an ice axe, then simultaneous movement), 400 m to the pre-summit ridge. The ascent to the summit along the snowy ridge is quite simple (there are cornices on the right). Descent along the ascent route. By the end of the day, there was even more ice in the couloir, the descent took 4 hours; 8 rock and 15 ice (screw-in) hooks were hammered in.

Recommendations for climbers

Given the harsh climate of the region, it is possible to depart from the last green bivouac at 11:00, there will be enough time until 19:00 to cover the distance to the snowy-ice couloir, where under an overhanging rock in a snowy hollow you can organize an excellent bivouac, two tents can be set up. Cross the couloir only early in the morning, as in the afternoon it is dangerous due to:

• rocks,
• icefalls,

REPORT

On the first ascent of a group of climbers from Kaliningrad, Moscow Region, to the unnamed peak 4740 m from the ridge (Peak Kaliningrad, route category 2B)

Location: Tian-Shan, western part of the Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge, Chon-Tura-Su gorge area Date: Group composition:

1. Kremena V.P. — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
2. Kurshin A.P. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports 1st rope
3. Glazchenko V.I. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
4. Okhrimenko S.V. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports

Passport.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too.
3. p. Zinaida (5350 m) via NW ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B, combined.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow-ice part is 30 degrees.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 2, ice – 0.
7. Travel hours: 4 hours.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Akhmatov F.A., CMS.

16

Ascent to the peak Druzhba via the North-West Ridge

(3A cat. of diff.) We depart from the camp located on Lake Ototash at the foot of the peak Trezubets at 5 a.m. The ascent goes via a relatively gentle glacier covered in deep snow. The snow is covered with an ice crust on top. Almost the entire way the crust collapses under a person's weight and feet sink into the snow up to the knees. We move 100–200 m away from the Trezubets walls gradually turning right. After 1 hour and 30 minutes of walking, we pass several wide crevasses entirely filled with snow. 30 minutes later, we reach Col K-3. Features of the col:

• A gentle snow-covered glacier ascends smoothly and descends just as smoothly to the south.
• There are no crevasses on the col.
• Steep cliffs are located on both sides of the glacier.
• A steep, seemingly sheer glacier descends from the summit of Trezubets. It is also free of crevasses.

Route description to the summit of Peak Dementieva (4500 m), approximately 4A cat. diff. 7.5.713

Peak Dementieva (4500 m) is located in the northern spur of the Western Kokschaal-Too ridge (see map), which forms the right (orographic) bank of the Chong-Turasu river gorge.

Approaches

Leaving the base camp (see map) along the trail leading to the upper reaches of the Chong-Turasu river, we turn left at the third (along the way) stream flowing from the spur and flowing into the Chong-Turasu. Further ascent is along the talus (along the right orographic bank of the stream) under the rocky massif of the peak. The cemented talus resembles firm firn, requiring steps to be cut with the sole of the boot. At the beginning of the ridge on the talus, there is a possible spot for a tent, no water, but there is snow. The approach from the base camp to the stream takes 1 h, the ascent along the talus — 3–3.5 h.

Ascent

Bypassing the rocky walls on the right along the way, along the talus we reach the ridge (1 h), further the path goes along the ridge of medium difficulty, with protection through ledges, the rocks are quite heavily destroyed (2 h). The ridge turns into a sharp crest, which is overcome in a classical way, the length is 5–7 m. The crest leads to a wall (3–4 m) sheer with minimal holds, overhanging above the precipice. Protection is with pitons. After the wall, a ridge of medium difficulty (protection through ledges) leads to a 40-meter wall, dissected by a small crack. In front of the wall, there is a flat area where a tent can be pitched. Passing the wall — with piton protection without backpacks:

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak Dankova via NNE ridge (5982 m)
4. Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1650 m Distance — 2200 m. Category 5B difficulty sections — 580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°
6. Pitons used: rock 14/2, nuts 8, ice screws 74
7. Climbing hours — 22 and days — 3