16

Ascent to the peak Druzhba via the North-West Ridge

(3A cat. of diff.)

We depart from the camp located on Lake Ototash at the foot of the peak Trezubets at 5 a.m. The ascent goes via a relatively gentle glacier covered in deep snow. The snow is covered with an ice crust on top. Almost the entire way the crust collapses under a person's weight and feet sink into the snow up to the knees. We move 100–200 m away from the Trezubets walls gradually turning right.

After 1 hour and 30 minutes of walking, we pass several wide crevasses entirely filled with snow. 30 minutes later, we reach Col K-3.

Features of the col:

• A gentle snow-covered glacier ascends smoothly and descends just as smoothly to the south.
• There are no crevasses on the col.
• Steep cliffs are located on both sides of the glacier.
• A steep, seemingly sheer glacier descends from the summit of Trezubets. It is also free of crevasses.
• To the south lies a series of peaks with sheer walls dropping down to the glacier.
• In the misty distance, one can see the sandy deserts and peaks of Karakoram...

The col is very symbolic (as is the summit, for that matter). We can't resist the pleasure of walking along the col, so one of our feet is in China, and the other is in the USSR. Although this "being abroad" is symbolic rather than real, we can still say later, "I was in China."

The ascent to Druzhba peak lies via Promezhutochnaya peak - they are located on the same ridge. This ridge is also a border ridge. The ridge leading to the col, while remaining relatively gentle "in profile," gradually becomes steeper and connects with the ridge of the peak. From the right, a ridge of steep rocks approaches, which gradually merges with the pre-summit ridge. The pre-summit ridge at this point (i.e., to the east) turns into a saddle between the Ototash and Nalivkin glaciers. The part of it closest to us is an ice wall. The middle part of the wall is icy, with a steepness of about 70°. Part of it - 20–30 m - is covered with a very thin layer of snow.

First, we ascend a steep snowfield. We tackle it head-on. Traversing to the right would have led us to the rocks a bit faster, but this way, the risk of an avalanche is almost eliminated.

The weather is perfect. In the morning, the temperature was just below zero. The entire ascent to the col was under the sun. Now, having reached an altitude of over 5400 m, the temperature has dropped to -15°, and as we step onto the rocks, we are in the shade. We encounter a 20-meter layer of ice on the rocks. The lower part of it is covered with deep snow. We rope up (the rest of the ascent and descent are done in teams).

The rocks are about 50° steep, but in some areas, the steepness is not higher. We cut steps in the ice - and ascend to the rocks. This section is covered in 30 minutes. Reaching the rocks does not bring the desired relief. Movement is severely hampered by a thin ice crust covering the rocks like a shell. We can't spot any cracks for pitons, and there are no sufficient areas of clear ice for ice screws either. However, the overall structure of the rocks is convenient for belaying via ledges. We use waist and shoulder belays only in two or three places. It's very cold. Ponomareva's feet are frostbitten twice, and Chasov and Ivanova have theirs frostbitten once. However, there's no way to speed up. Hands are freezing, feet are slipping. The belayer is in constant nervous tension, as the icy rocks are hazardous even on gentle sections.

After 1 hour, it becomes easier to climb. The steepness of the rocks decreases, and patches of firm snow appear. For 20 minutes, we forego the alternating belay as we are on a gentle section of the summit ridge.

We continue along the ridge. It's not far to Promezhutochnaya peak. The summit is marked by several stone blocks standing upright, resembling a bunch of feathers. The peak is visible from all surrounding glaciers.

We keep moving along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, gentle, with a slight slope to the right. Despite the blinding sun, it's very cold; the temperature is around -15°. We feel the chill especially when the wind picks up; tiny ice particles sting our faces. We make our way to the "Promezhutochny" peak at a brisk pace and take a short break among the rocks. We find a note from A. Sokolova's group dated August 17, 1958, in a cairn.

After a slight descent, we begin the ascent to "Druzhba" peak. After 100–150 m of walking through deep snow, the ridge starts to take shape. Initially, it's over 10 m wide. Gradually, the ridge narrows and becomes steeper.

Several times we move off the ridge to the right: cornices start to appear on the eastern side. It's steeper here, but safer.

The ridge keeps narrowing. At the same time, cornices appear more frequently on the left, until it becomes a knife-edge with a steepness of about 35°. We descend to the right, a few meters down the slope. This slight descent leads us to traverse a 50° snow-ice slope. For about 30 m, we move with mutual belay via ice axes. However, the slope's smoothness, steepness, and deep snow (it's been 3 days since the last snowfall) indicate a risk of avalanche. So, we switch to piton belay. After 2 pitons, the slope's steepness reaches 60°. The main challenge is digging a pit in the nearly meter-deep snow to cut a ledge. After the fifth piton, we reach the pre-summit rise. The slope's steepness increases to 70°. We ascend the rise head-on. The 7th piton is driven at the summit. The 500-meter distance from Promezhutochny peak is covered in 4 hours.

The summit of the peak is a small, almost horizontal area covered in ice. The four of us can barely fit on it. Three sides have 70° slopes, and the fourth side continues as a ridge. 30–40 m from the summit, slightly below it, several rocky outcrops protrude, and then the rocky ridge drops steeply.

Despite the clear sky, it's very cold. Hands stick to cameras and compasses. We take photos quickly, make bearings, and sketch the 360° panorama. This is the first ascent with a circular view - exactly what we've always strived for.

After a brief discussion, we decide to name the summit "Druzhba" peak. We leave a note about the first ascent among the rocks at the end of the ridge.

The descent is much faster - the snow trench and pre-made belays allow us to descend to Promezhutochnaya in 1 hour. The path is even simpler. After descending to the rocks, we alter our course: instead of turning onto the rocky ridge, we continue along the ridge to the ice saddle. The ridge is 2–4 m wide but rocky. The rocks are hard and rough. We quickly reach the ice wall that we need to descend.

We attempt to descend in crampons while roped up but realize we need to cut steps. We decide to implement a plan conceived during the ascent: descend as far as possible down the slope to the steepest part, then slide down the ice to the deep, loose snow on the gentler part of the slope. The first team executes this plan flawlessly. They slide 7–10 m, land in deep snow, and stop. They then move further, 50 m down, clearing the way for the second team. It's not easy - they have to break through a meter-deep trench. Meanwhile, the second team moves 10 m beyond their point of descent, unties, and coils the rope. Chasov and Ponomareva approach the edge of the slope almost simultaneously. There's a dry, characteristic crack, and the slope shudders beneath their feet. It's an avalanche. The entire mass of snow lying on the ice has been dislodged, undercut by the previous climbers and the first team. The leading wave of the avalanche quickly rolls down the ice and continues moving by inertia across the gentler slope (about 15° steep). Some of the snow behind the leading wave also keeps moving.

Chasov stops quickly, having slid only 50 m beyond the first team's landing spot. Ponomareva, however, loses her composure. Instead of flattening herself, she curls up and rolls forward easily. She continues rolling even after the avalanche has stopped... Apparently, she slides 100 m below the slope's bend.

Rushing to her, we can't help but laugh at the comical sight of the snow-covered figure. Soft snow has penetrated everywhere - under her windbreaker and even into her socks. It looks like she's been bathing in water rather than caught in an avalanche.

The rest of the journey is straightforward and familiar; the tracks are well-preserved. We hurry down. At the camp, we're greeted with the question, "So, what did you name the peak?" We reply that we've named it "Druzhba."

The ascent took one day. On the route (during the ascent), one rock piton and 7 ice screws were used; on the descent, 6 ice screws were used. The height of the peak (approximately) is 5300 m.