Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau range
3. Peak — 4758 m (Pik Pozharnikh Geroyev Chernobylia via the north edge)
4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 858 m Section lengths:

• 3rd category of difficulty — 280 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 355 m Average slope:

Passport

I. Class — technical 2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too 3. Pik Podmoskovny via North Ridge 4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1133 m. Distance 1250 m. Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 730 m, including 120 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the main part of the route 65°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 32/3, bolted — 0/0, chocks — 51/8, ice screws — 12/0 7. Team's travel time: 24 hours and 3 days.

An isolated high peak in the spur between the middle parts of the Ototash and Nalivkin glaciers. The Pik Piramidy is separated from Obzorny peak by the P-2 pass. The summit is completely snow-ice, rock outcrops are rare even on the ridges. The ascent to the summit from the Ototash glacier takes 8–10 hours and is made along the indistinct southwestern counterfort.

ASCENT TO PIK OBZORNY FROM THE WEST (2B category)

From the camp located in the upper part of the Ototash glacier, we set out at 5:00 am. We cross the two-kilometer width of the glacier through deep snow and begin the ascent head-on. Gradually, the ice begins to emerge from under the snow, so we move to the right (to the south). At this point, the peak drops to the glacier with a steep rocky wall - the path lies along the edge formed by the cirque from the south and the glacier sliding down from the summit. Sections of uncomplicated rocks alternate with deep snow, only occasionally there are sections of ice — we try to bypass them. We move connected, but the movement is mostly simultaneous. Only at the very end of the rib, when reaching the snow dome of the summit — 2 ropes of interesting, but uncomplicated rock climbing along a not steep snowy wall.

Pik Moldova

Moldova is one of the peaks of the lateral spur between the eastern branch of Grigoryev Glacier and the rear wall of Chon-Turasu cirque. It drops to Chon-Turasu with a sheer 1000-meter wall: a sharp pyramid covered with snow rises 100–150 m above it, and the peak faces the branch of Grigoryev Glacier with a steep snow-ice wall with rock outcrops in the lower part. On both sides from the peak, the lateral spur has a gentle snow-ice ridge, turning into BS стена (Big Wall) peak to the southeast, and into a fork with Черный (Chernij) (to the northwest) and Moldova (to the northeast) passes:

• Черный (Chernij) (to the northwest)
• Moldova (to the northeast) The ascent to the peak is done along the right slope of Chon-Turasu (past Скала (Skala) and Снежная Трапеция (Sneznaja Trapecija) bivouac sites), along the eastern branch of the glacier to Moldova Pass and further directly along the ridge to the peak. All ascents can be done in one day.

Pik Molodezhnyj

The peak is located in the Main Ridge and is part of the massif that bounds the middle part of Исследователей (Issledovatelei) Glacier from the south. Pik Molodezhnyj is completely covered with an ice carapace; the peak stands out from the massif. There are two characteristic rock outcrops on the lower part of the northern slope:

• the lower one is long, like a retaining wall, separating the glacier flowing down from the peak from Исследователей (Issledovatelei) Glacier;

Pik Moldova

Moldova is one of the peaks of the lateral spur between the eastern branch of Grigoryev Glacier and the rear wall of Chon-Turasu cirque. It drops to Chon-Turasu with a sheer 1000-meter wall: a sharp pyramid covered with snow rises 100–150 m above it. Towards the branch of Grigoryev Glacier, the peak faces a steep snow and ice wall with rock formations in the lower part. On both sides of the peak, the lateral spur has a gently sloping snow and ice ridge, transitioning into Bolshaya Wall peak to the southeast and into a fork with passes to the northwest:

• Chyorny (to the northwest);
• Moldova (to the northeast). The ascent to the peak is carried out along the right slope of Chon-Turasu (under the "Skala" and "Snezhnaya Trapetsiya" landmarks), along the eastern branch of the glacier to Moldova Pass and then directly along the ridge to the peak. All ascents can be completed in one day.

Pik Molodyozhny 2931 m

The peak is located in the Main Ridge and is part of the massif that bounds the middle part of Issledovatelei Glacier from the south. Pik Molodyozhny is completely covered with an ice cap, and the peak stands out from the massif. There are two characteristic rock outcrops on the lower part of the northern slope:

• the lower one is long, resembling a retaining wall, separating the glacier flowing from the peak from Issledovatelei Glacier;

ASCENT TO PIK MARONA VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE (cat. grade 3A) 2729 From the camp located on a flat, gravelly area of the upper modern erosion base of the Issledovateley and Chon-Turasu glaciers, we head towards the NNE rock ridge of Pik Marona, situated between the Chon-Turasu river and the Marona glacier. We cross ridges of old lateral moraines and, after 15 minutes, approach the slope of the ridge at a point where a powerful talus slope descends from under the rocky ridge. To the left remain:

• massive rock outcrops of black-green rock,
• scree slopes of fine gravel stretching from them. We ascend directly up the talus slope to a rock wall, then move:
• first along the slope,
• then along terraces upwards along the wall,
• across fine scree, clay soils, and occasionally easy rock. After 2 hours of ascent, we reach the end of the terrace. This location is easily identifiable by two small caves, and the terrace almost immediately ends.

Ascent to the peak of Maron from the north (2A cat. difficulty)

From the camp located on a flat gravel site in front of the peak Iсследователей and Чон-Турасу, we head through the ridges of old lateral moraines to the NNE ridge of the peak. x) Description compiled by A. Perelman. The ridge itself, starting from the snowy part downwards, is even and only has a dip in one place, shaped like an inverted letter "П". The ridge is bordered on both sides by sheer cliffs. On the eastern side, a talus slope stretches under the ridge, while on the western side lies the Maron glacier. We skirt the ridge from the north along a steep, rocky, grassy slope (45–50°). It's best to ascend gradually, without descending to the grassy clearing with a cirque in the Chon-Turasu valley. The stream flowing from the Maron glacier remains to the right of the path in a canyon. After 300 m of ascent, we reach the lower, flat part of the cirque. The stream flows between boulders. To the left are grassy slopes (under the ridge), while to the right, a long and narrow moraine begins. The moraine goes to the left, southwest. Between the moraine and the foot of the wall, a 300 m wide tongue begins. The tongue extends under the surface moraine. To the right of the moraine, a large talus cirque opens up, with a pass saddle visible in its upper part. The moraine abuts a rock at its upper end, which is quite weathered and crumbling. The glacier in this area widens to 500–600 m. It's heavily littered, covered in dirt, rocks, and sand, and is crisscrossed by streams. Further on, the rock expands into a low rocky spur, apparently descending from the peak Февральской революции. At the lower part of the rock, at a height of two meters, there's a small, very even, sandy and pebbly platform. It's well-protected from the wind and dry. We hammer in several pitons and set up a tent on ice axes. The approach to the overnight stay took less than 5 hours.

Report

On the first ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Kyzyl-Asker, 5842 m via the South Ridge (approximately 6B category) Team Leader: Evgeny G. Murin Team Member: Ilya N. Penyayev Coach: Tatyana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg 2018 Climbing Passport

1. General Information 1.1 Murin Evgeny G. Master of Sports

Russian Championship in Alpinism High-Altitude Technical Class 2018

Report

On ascending peak Kyzyl-Asker via the central spur of the southeast wall — "Franco-Belgian" variant. By the team from St. Petersburg. 2nd ascent. Proposed 6B category of complexity. From July 25 to August 3, 2018. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team leader: Nagaev R.R. Team members:

• Matinyan A.A.
• Trikozov V.M. St. Petersburg, 2018

Ascent Details

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY ALPINISM FEDERATION

2016 Russian Championship in Alpinism

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

On the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory: Peak Kyzyl-Asker 5842 m via the center of the southeast wall, "Kop'e" route Proposed grade:

• 6B category of difficulty
• First ascent Krasnoyarsk 2016