Peak Kabalchicha (5450 m)

(approx. 4A cat. dif.) CC.3.

From the "Researchers" glacier turn left onto the "Koroleva" glacier, which is quite steep (30–35°), with a lot of clean ice, sticking to the right side as you move, we come out onto an ice plateau, climbing in crampons. Insurance on individual sections is hook-type, screw-in ice hooks tested during training sessions were used. From the glacier, climb to the left along destroyed and icy rocks, along sheer walls, to a snowy-ice couloir, insurance using ledges. This section was covered in 5 hours in bad weather. The couloir is 30–40° steep, местами purely icy, insurance is hook-type, walk in crampons, the ascent takes 4 hours. In the upper part, the couloir ends with a wall (5–6 m) heavily destroyed, steep and covered with snow, the first one passes by climbing, using footholds, 2 rock hooks are hammered in, the rest with top rope insurance on a hung rope. The ascent took 1.5 hours. Exit left onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 25–30° (insurance on 2 ropes through an ice axe, then simultaneous movement), 400 m to the pre-summit ridge. The ascent to the summit along the snowy ridge is quite simple (there are cornices on the right). Descent along the ascent route. By the end of the day, there was even more ice in the couloir, the descent took 4 hours; 8 rock and 15 ice (screw-in) hooks were hammered in.

Recommendations for climbers

Given the harsh climate of the region, it is possible to depart from the last green bivouac at 11:00, there will be enough time until 19:00 to cover the distance to the snowy-ice couloir, where under an overhanging rock in a snowy hollow you can organize an excellent bivouac, two tents can be set up.

Cross the couloir only early in the morning, as in the afternoon it is dangerous due to:

• rocks,
• icefalls,
• avalanches.

The ascent from the foot of "Koroleva" to the summit takes 10–12 hours; it is better to divide the route into 2 sections, as described above.

Required equipment

(for a group of 4 people)

1. "Pamirka" tent — 1 pc.
2. Main rope 2 × 40 m
3. Auxiliary rope — 1 × 40 m
4. Expendable rope — 2 m
5. Rock hooks — 15 pcs.
6. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
7. Ice hooks — 6 pcs.
8. "Shmel" primus stove — 1 pc.
9. Crampons — 4 pairs
10. Carabiners — 3 pieces per person