REPORT

on the first ascent of Peak Dankov (5982 m) via the Southwest wall, announced in the championship of the Armed Forces of the USSR on mountaineering in the 1972 season

Team: SKA SAVO

August 1972 Team captain — A. Ilyinsky, B. Gulnev Team coach — L. Kiselev Alma-Ata, 1972

1. Characteristics of the Region

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge is oriented in the latitudinal direction. To the south, it is adjacent to the Takla-Makan desert, and to the north, it is bounded by the powerful mountain ranges of Terskey-Alatau, Boroldoi, and Jetym (Fig. 1).

I. Category of ascent: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. Area of ascent: KOK-SHAAL-TAU RANGE, DJUREK TRACT 3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: NORTH-WEST WALL, TENDING TO THE NORTH (azimuth 340°) p. DANKOV, 5982 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2000 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70° — 540 m, LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS 54 5. Number of pitons hammered: ROCK — 190 pcs., ICE — 35 pcs., BOLTED — 9 pcs. 6. Number of travel hours: 91 Number of hours spent on preliminary processing: 29.5 hours

Passport.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Peak Gornykh Voditeley (4730 m) via NW ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2B, combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m, length: 1500 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45°, snow and ice part is 30°.
6. Pitons: rock - 0, ice - 0, chockstones - 2.
7. Climbing time: 4 hours.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Boyko V.V., Master of Sports.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Summit — 5160 m (Vityaz peak) via NE ridge
4. Planned — 5A category, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1010 m. Length of sections:

• 4th category — 425 m.
• 5th category — 460 m. Average steepness:

Passport

1. Category — technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Peak Alpinist via the center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1219 m. Distance 1648 m. Distance of sections with 5–6B category: 792 m, of which 415 m are category 6B. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4270–4930 m) is 70°.
6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nuts, ice: 52/5, 0/0, 88/12, 24/0.
7. Team's total time: 45 hours and 5 days.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Pik Alpinist, (5492 m) via S ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A, combined.
5. Height difference: 1450 m, length: 2700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow and ice part is 30 degrees.
6. Pitons driven:
7. Climbing hours: 40 and days: 2.
8. Overnight stay: on the ridge.
9. Leader: Alexis Deschamps.
10. Participants:

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16