REPORT

On the first ascent of a group of climbers from Kaliningrad, Moscow Region, to the unnamed peak 4740 m from the ridge (Peak Kaliningrad, route category 2B)

Location: Tian-Shan, western part of the Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge, Chon-Tura-Su gorge area

Date:

Group composition:

1. Kremena V.P. — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
2. Kurshin A.P. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports

1st rope

3. Glazchenko V.I. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
4. Okhrimenko S.V. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports

2nd rope

5. Yanochkin A.I. — participant, 1st sports category
6. Alibegashvili L.M. — participant, 1st sports category

With the aim of fulfilling the acclimatization schedule, training, and reconnaissance of the route for the upcoming traverse of peaks 5450 m, 5816 m, and 5600 m, announced for the 1969 USSR championship, an ascent was made to the unnamed peak 4740 m, located directly above the base camp.

The choice of the ascent object was determined by the fact that this peak is located near the objects of the planned traverse and is situated in the ridge extending directly from under the central wall of peak 5816 m (the object of the traverse) to the northwest in the direction of the confluence of the Chon-Tura-Su and Chon-Uzengeguish rivers. Thus, it was considered that from this peak, the entire massif of the upcoming traverse could be well observed. Interest in this training ascent to peak 4740 m was also fueled by the fact that until now, we had not been able to observe the objects of the declared traverse from the side of their northern slopes.

We also did not have corresponding photographs taken from this angle. Although it was estimated that the ascent to peak 4740 m and return to camp would take no more than 10-12 hours, tactically, the ascent was planned with an overnight stay somewhere in the vicinity of the peak. According to our calculations, this would provide an opportunity to observe the object of the upcoming traverse for the USSR championship both in the evening and in the morning (i.e., with western and eastern sunlight), in order to study the visible part of the route as thoroughly as possible and identify all the features of the traverse ridge relief. Based on the tactical plan, the group left the expedition's base camp (see diagram) at 12:00. The path goes immediately from the camp upwards along the green slope (in the direction of a large stone lying on the slope) perpendicular to the direction of the main ridge, in which peak 4740 m is located. On steep sections, a serpentine ascent is used.

Although the ascent is generally not steep, after bad weather in the preceding days and subsequent sharp warming, the slope became swollen, making the ascent tiring.

After 2 hours of ascent along the slope, we transition to one of the numerous lateral ridges here, bounded by steep talus couloirs and leading to the main ridge. At one convenient spot (1), we make a stop for photography and discussion of the ascent route (see photo 1). After another 2 hours of ascent along the lateral ridge, already covered in snow, we reach the main ridge (2), and an amazing panorama of the massif of peaks 5450, 5816, and 5600, and nearby peaks, immediately opens up! (see photo 2). The sun is already in the west (16:00). The lateral lighting of the traverse peaks is ideal for photography. We use a spotting scope. We manage to observe the upper part of peak 5450 and the ascent route to peak 5816 well. Unfortunately, the descent route from peak 5816, considered a key point, is not visible. However, it's not a significant issue: another group that departed on the same day to the Researchers' Glacier will be able to observe it well from there!

After a short rest, we proceed along the gentle ridge towards the first "gendarme" (3). We bypass this "gendarme" on the right along the snow (at 17:00). At the base of the "gendarme", there is a convenient snow cornice where a tent can be set up. However, we still have plenty of time, so we continue the ascent further.

The second "gendarme" (4) on our route is also bypassed on the right. To do this, we descend at its base down the snow and then ascend again to the ridge. Here (5), the rocks are heavily destroyed, and under a thin layer of snow, ice is exposed. Therefore, we move on this section with alternating insurance using rock outcrops. In one place, due to the lack of reliable outcrops, we hammer in a rock anchor.

Just before the peak, a surprise awaits! A delay: the path is blocked by a 4-meter wall (6). Bypassing it is challenging, so we decide to overcome it head-on, directly along the line of continuation of the ridge. Since the available ledges on it slope outward, and the rocks are icy, we have to hammer in anchors to create artificial footholds. Insurance is also through anchors. The first (A. Kurshin) passes without a backpack, which is then pulled up on a rope.

Then, a steep snow ascent (7), and the peak (8) welcomes its first conquerors! A little lower, to the west, is a false peak (9), previously mistaken by us from the base camp for the main peak. We measure the height of the peak using an altimeter. Traditional "snacking". We quickly "empty" a can of preserves for the upcoming cairn capsule.

By the right of the first ascenders, we recommend naming the peak "Kaliningrad". We build a cairn from stones, leave a note in it, and begin to descend in the opposite direction relative to the ascent ridge.

And here, not far from the peak, as required by our tactical task, fate presents us with: — a fairly good platform under an overhanging rock!

Ice axes knock, clearing a spot for the tent. Fog and graupel are encountered. It gets dark. But the tent is already pitched.

However, in the morning, we are unlucky: the area is shrouded in low clouds. Since light is visible through the clouds from above, we decide to wait for an opportunity: maybe with time, we will see the massif of peak 5816! Waiting until mid-day, it becomes clear that no improvement in the weather is expected. We decide to descend.

This peak, from the opposite side (from the side of peak 5816), represents a huge tower with sheer walls, from under one of which a low ridge extends to peak 5816, dividing the glacier at its foot into two parts — eastern and western. Descending to this ridge with the equipment we had was not possible. Therefore, we decide to descend towards the col in the direction of Peak Dementiev.

First, from the overnight stay spot, we move to the right onto a shoulder in the direction of the false peak 9, and then descend along the steep snow into a couloir under its base, adhering to the rocks on the right. In the narrow part of the couloir, where it turns into talus, we move to its left side and descend along it in the direction of the col with Peak Dementiev, taking a bit downwards towards a stream.

Where the deep snow from the previous bad weather ends, we unrope and, proceeding further down the stream, approach a river originating from the western part of the glacier at the foot of peak 5816.

The descent along the gorge of this river to the Chon-Tura-Su gorge must be carried out along the left slope, bypassing: — the river's narrows, — steep landslide slopes above.

The entire ascent took 10 hours of walking time. During the debriefing conducted by the senior expedition coach, Master of Sports P. Povarnin, the ascent and leadership were recognized and the assessment of the first ascent via this route was confirmed as category 2B.

Recommendations for Climbers

The ascent is better undertaken in one day, starting from the base camp early in the morning. — The group size can be up to 8 people.

For a group of 4 people, the following shared equipment is necessary for the ascent:

1. tent — 1
2. main ropes — 2
3. rock hammers — 2
4. rock anchors — 5
5. carabiners — 5
6. spare goggles — 1
7. food — for 2 days

Possible bivouac sites on the route: — upon reaching the main ridge — 2, — under the first "gendarme" — 3, — in the vicinity of the peak — 8.

— Communication: in good weather, visual communication from the base camp is possible.

GROUP LEADER OF THE FIRST ASCENDERS (V. KREMENA)