Passport.
- Class: technical.
- Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too.
- p. Zinaida (5350 m) via NW ridge.
- Proposed category 2B, combined.
- Height difference 500 m, length 800 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow-ice part is 30 degrees.
- Pitons hammered: rock – 2, ice – 0.
- Travel hours: 4 hours.
- Overnight stays: none.
- Leader: Akhmatov F.A., CMS. Participants: Lebedev M.V., CMS; Lebedeva E.V., CMS.
- Coach: Korsun A.G.
- Departure: August 5, 1993. Return: August 5, 1993.
- p. Korolev
- p. Zander
- p. Podmoskovny
- p. Zinaida
Route description.
The route to the summit Zinaida is a relatively straightforward combined route with a considerable (about 1300 m) gain in height from the Issledovateley Glacier. An acclimatized group can easily complete it without an overnight stay. If the route is chosen to combine a training ascent with an acclimatization hike, it is recommended to pass it with an overnight stay on the saddle between p. Podmoskovny and p. Zinaida.
From a technical point of view:
- The ascent to the saddle is not a problem.
- The ice slope leading to the saddle is gentle, and during the ascent in 1993, it was possible to move confidently without insurance.
- On the saddle, you can find a comfortable place to spend the night.
The NW ridge leading from the saddle to the summit:
- Is rocky, but in 1993, it was heavily covered with snow.
- Here, insurance is necessary, which can be conveniently organized using rock pitons.
- The summit is snowy, so the cairn was built slightly below the summit, to the right of the route on the rocks.