Kyrgyz Alatau
Route Description: с Ю перем.
SSummitMateThe route to Elbrus peak (4550) via the "normal route" through the "kosaia polka" with description and photographs.
4550
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent to Elbrus peak via the classic route through Priut 11 from the north. Detailed route description, key difficulties, and necessary preparations.
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Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent to Everest peak via South Col from Camp III (7250m) to the summit (8848m) with a description of technical details and key route moments.
A photograph of the northern wall of Alamedin wall taken from a helicopter in 1989 from a height of 3800 meters.
PHOTO MI. Alamedin wall (C), north wall. Shot from a helicopter — February 1989, distance — 2 km, shooting point ㅅ, height — 3800 m. Lens — Т-43, focal length — 4/40
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of the Alamedin Wall (4550 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan via a Category III-V route.
II A C II O P O T
I. Class — snow and ice 2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Salk gorge 3. Summit — Alamadinskaya wall (N), 4550 m 4. Category — approximately 5B cat. dif., first ascent 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1000 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 880 m. Average steepness — 52° 6. Pitons hammered in:
| rock | bolt | nuts | ice |
|---|
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the climbing route with a detailed analysis of sections and insurance features in different weather conditions.
The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:
- Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
- Alternating movement.
- Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
- Rock islands covered with ice.
- In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
- Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the challenging route, and key moments of the expedition.
$ -7- $
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateA description of the ascent route to the summit, divided into sections, with illustrations and a detailed analysis of technical difficulties.
Section 8
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the route section "Tian Shan, Khan Tengri, north-eastern edge", category of complexity 6A.
Section 12
Route Description: левому кулуару СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of a combined route of 4B category of difficulty to the summit of Bailiang-Bashi (4700 m) in the North Tien Shan.
PUBLIC ORGANIZATION 8–7.229 (4А)
Tyumen Regional Federation of Alpinism
Tyumen, phone: 89222621340 Web: www.tyumen-alp.ru, E-mail: teent@bk.ru Outgoing letter dated October 1, 2008, No. 56 Dear colleagues! We ask you to review and take into consideration the report of the TRFA team, which made the first ascent of the route to the summit of Baylyan–Bashi, presumably category 4B. The report is attached. President of TRFA T. T. Gainullin