. Abuamorob. 1a 2n a 3n Baumc A buamorob-

The summit of Adygenе is located in the upper reaches of the eponymous gorge on the northern slope of the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range. It is the highest point of the Dzhalamysh spur. North of the Adygenе peak in this spur stands the peak Agitatorov (1A cat. diff.); the ridge branching off from it to the east leads to the summit Elektro (1B cat. diff.). Between the peak Adygenе and the peak Elektro lies the Adygenе pass (1B cat. diff., 4030 m). To the west from the peak Adygenе a short ridge branches off. The western slopes of the summit are cut off by steep rocky walls. The northern slope is a hanging glacier flowing into the Tez-Tor glacier. The summit Adygenе is well visible from the Ala-Archa gorge and from the city of Bishkek. From here (from the north-east and from the north) it looks like an icy pyramid. From the very base of the Alplager "Ala-Archa" the peak Adygenе is a qualifying summit for beginner climbers. The path to the summit from the Alplager "Ala-Archa" lies through the Adygenе gorge. The mouth of this gorge is 900–950 m below the camp. Adygenе is a left tributary of the Ala-Archa river. On the right (orographically) side of the Adygenе gorge there is an intricate and well-trodden trail that goes through a forest of Tian Shan spruce. Then it leads climbers through a rich tall-grass meadow, some plants of which reach human height. Beyond the tall-grass meadow, the trail winds above the river at a height of about 100 m, passing through a subalpine meadow, then descends to the river a little above the confluence of the Adygenе and Tez-Tor rivers. Here the Adygenе river can be easily forded across the stones, and further on the trail goes to the end along the left bank of the Adygenе river. At the terminal moraine of the glacier there is a convenient area for a large bivouac, the so-called "Elektro" campsite. It is:

• safe,
• has a stream with clean water,
• can easily accommodate several teams.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent to peak Akduval, 442 m. First ascent. Ascent class — combined (ice and rock) II. Ascent area — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area. III. Peak Akduval 442 m via NE ridge. IV. Proposed category difficulty — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m, length of sections with category difficulty 3–4 — 340 m, average steepness — 52°. Pitons used: rock — 21, ice — 2. Number of walking hours — 12 6. Number of overnight stays — none Leader — Alimov V.P. Candidate Master of Sports Participants:

• Alekseeva I.A. 2nd category
• Razmastaev M.D. 2nd category
• Polyntsev V.A. 2nd category

R4 120­ M 50"­ III

R3 100­ M 50"­ III

R2 120­ M 45"­ 55"­ III

A K.­ TYP

Ascent Passport

on Akduval 442 m. First ascent. I. Ascent category: ice-snow 2. Ascent region:

• Kyrgyz Ala-Too range
• Golubina glacier area Peak:
• Akduval 442 m via ice from the North Proposed category: 3B

5. Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m, length of sections with category 3–4 difficulty — 310 m, average steepness — 51°

Boscozhenni route on p. AkToo

on S. wall 45 c.d. B. Gavrilov, 57a Rr 60­m 20" I 45­-20­m 02686 20­m 70" IV 02686 20­m 70" IV 02686 40­m 45" IV 02686 40­m 60" IV 02686 40­m 70" IV 02686 240­m 45­-40" IV 02686 628­m 35" III

Ak­-Too 4600 ­m

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Ar­tos

Kirov Region Mountaineering and Climbing Federation

Ascent Report

Kirov team ascent of Aktoo peak (4620 m) via the right-hand part of the North wall. January 9, 2013. Approximately category 5A complexity.

Kirov, 2013

Ascent Details

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge. Section number according to the classification table: 7.4.
2. Aktoo peak (4620 m) (peak coordinates: 42°30′05.82″ N, 74°31′59.13″ E), right-hand part of the North wall.
3. Category: proposed 5A winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: 720 m (3900 m — 4620 m).