Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge.

Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.

Route character — ridge.

Route height difference — 700 m.

Route length — 1700 m.

Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
Pitons left on the route: total — 0;
Total used on the route: ice screws — 0, rock pitons — 0, chocks — 0.
Total artificial protection points (APs) used — 0 pcs.
Team's total climbing hours: 6 hours, 1 day (excluding overnight stays)
Team:

Klevtsova Anastasia (leader).

Seliverstov Sergey

Usatykh Alexey.

Senior coach: Popov Fedor Efimovich
Departure to the route: 8:00, November 27, 2016.

Reached the summit: 14:30, November 27, 2016.

Returned to Base Camp: 16:00, November 27, 2016.

General view of the summit

Route Description

Departure from Ratshek campsite (Base Camp)	8-00
Approached the route	9-30
Reached the summit	14-00
Descent to Base Camp	16-00

We start moving towards Uchitel Glacier. After the first ascent (20 minutes walk), we look for a logical couloir on the left above, bounded by steep rock walls. We turn in its direction. At the entrance to the couloir, we set up a large cairn.

Further:

To the very top of the couloir, which ends in a rock cirque.
We put on harnesses, helmets, and rope up.
We start along a logical inner corner (20 m, 45°, II).
Further on foot along the scree-filled couloir towards the ridge.
Through a small wall, we exit onto the ridge (2 m, 60°, III).
Further to the very summit — a long ridge, sometimes small walls, sometimes heavily destroyed (1600 m, 30°, I–II).
Before the summit — a snow-ice ridge. Crampons may be needed.

A good long 2 "A".

CouloirStart of the route