Kyrgyz Alatau

Mountain range17,375.73 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the 3A category route to the summit of Ala-Archa (4088 m) via the western ridge in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak Ala-Archa 4088 m via Eastern ridge, route characteristic — ridge climb 4. Proposed complexity category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 520 m, length — 880 m, including sections of 3*-4th cat. diff. — 90 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 350 m; average slope — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 17(0), chocks — 8(0), ice — 0 7. Duration — 12 hours 8. Overnight stays — none 9. Team leader — Kuzovov D.S., Master of Sports

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A new route on the north wall of Novomaygre (category 6B difficulty) climbed by a team of Russian climbers in July 2023.

The route via Novomoy­greche J-a­n.....

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Ascent certificate for the peak Ala-Archa 4088 m via NE buttress, grade 3B, first ascent, route details and team members.

Ascent Passport

to Mt. Ala-Archa 4088 m. First Ascent

  1. Ascent Class — rock
  2. Ascent Region — Kyrgyz Range, Golubina area. Ala-Archa peak 4088 m via NE ridge. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
  3. Route Characteristics: height difference — 560 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 65 m, category 3+ difficulty — 160 m, the rest — category 2 difficulty, average slope — 56° Pitons hammered: rock — 22 (0); fixed elements — 10 (0); ice — 0
  4. Number of climbing hours — 12
  5. Number of nights spent — none Leader — Bazarov Z.I.I. 1st sports rank
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Description of the route to the top of Ala-Archa with difficulty category III-IV, including details of the approach, ascent, and descent, as well as the necessary equipment.

Overnight stay at the GMS station on the Roluбина glacier, crossing the glacier, approach to the slopes of p. Ала-Арча near a large moraine. Start of the route:

  • Along the scree shelf to the red gendarme on the right side.
  • Then up the steep snowy couloir with a stone plug at the top, entering the shelf between the gendarme and the wall (30 m, 40–45°, Cat. diff.).
  • Traverse along the scree side of the ridge — 50 m, Cat. diff.
  • Ascend medium-difficulty rocks to the control point — 10 m, Cat. diff.
  • Then straight up medium-difficulty rocks under the wall (80 m, Cat. diff.).
  • Up the wall with piton belay, exit to the main shelf (40 m, 70°; III–IV cat. diff.).
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Ascent to Ana-Apra, 4089m, a detailed description of the route with a diagram and complexity characteristics.

R12 15­m 50 11

  • 40­m 20 11
  • R2 60­m 45 11
  • R2 45­m 65 11
  • R7 110­m 25 30 11
  • R6 40­m 65 11
  • R2 40­m 70 11
  • R4 80­m 35 11
  • R2 60­m 40 11
  • R2 30­m 45 11
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Route Description: С ребру

SummitMateSSummitMate
16 days ago

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the classic route, features, and technical details.

It seems like you forgot to include the text to be translated. Please provide the Russian text, and I'll be happy to translate it into English according to the guidelines.

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Route Description: С ребру

SummitMateSSummitMate
16 days ago

Description of the ascent route to the summit of the mountain, including detailed photographs and technical information on the route.

Digitized by Google

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A description of the ascent route to the summit of Severnye Ekhisony, located in Kamchatka, with details on the difficulty and features of the climb.

Northern ex­co­nus

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Ascent to the summit Alamedinskaya Stena (4550 m) along the Western ridge, difficulty category 4B, height difference 1065 m, average steepness 49°.

II ascents

I. Climbing class: Technical 2. Climbing region 7.4 (Tian Shan. Kyrgyz Ala-Too) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route Alamedinskaya Wall (N. peak) — 4550 m via Western ridge (ascent to N.). 4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1065 m Average slope 49° Length of sections:

  • I — 510 m
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A description of the ascent route to Zakar, including technical information and a photograph from the summit.

Snapshot from the Transcarpathian summit

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