Characteristics of the area and its exploration history

The Issyk Lake area has long been known to both tourists and mountaineers. Several mountaineering groups and expeditions from the Talgar alpine camp and others have operated in the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge. They have conquered many peaks in the area and compiled detailed descriptions, diagrams, and more. However, the focus was primarily on the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge itself and its left (orographic) tributaries. There was a lack of information on ascents to the peaks of the right tributaries. Even on the most detailed map of the Trans-Ili Alatau available to us, the high peaks to the right of Issyk Lake were not marked. Meanwhile, the high peaks of the right tributaries are clearly visible from the village of Turgen and the Issyk railway station. From there, the significant glaciation of the area is also observable. The high peaks of the Pryamoye gorge, which flows into the Issyk River below the lake, are particularly noteworthy. In 1953, S. Kuderin and N. Shershnev attempted to approach these peaks via the Karabastau gorge, which flows into the Issyk River above the lake. The chosen path proved unsuccessful as it led to the steep and dangerous northern wall of the main peak in the area. Two months later, in May 1953, S. Kuderin and F. Lyubimov approached the glacier cirque via the Pryamoye gorge. The path turned out to be somewhat long and inconvenient for a large group. During this attempt, the group descended to the lake via the ridge separating the Issyk gorge from the Pryamoye gorge. It was found that this was the most convenient and shortest path to the glacier. On May 1, 1955, S. Kuderin and F. Khabibullin followed this path to the glacier cirque. From there, they made an ascent to a nameless peak with an elevation of 3800 m (№ 9) via a relatively straightforward route. There was no tour or note on the summit.

DESCRIPTION

7.2.54

Traversing peak "Zharsay" with ascent via the north-eastern ridge from Zharsay glacier and descent via the north-western ridge to "Bezymyannyy" pass. The "Zharsay" peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau in the south-eastern direction from the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the peak is 4750 m (rao No. 1).

Day 1

The path from "Talgar" camp goes along a steep grassy slope to the east to the training rocks. Further, crossing the moraine of "Ozerny" glacier, we exit to its right (orographic) part, and the movement goes up along a clearly marked trail to a wide couloir (with reddish rock) descending from "Kolokolnikov" peak. At this point, we turn to the right and exit to "Ozerny" glacier and, moving along its middle part, approach the foot of "Taverentaau" pass. Time from the camp to the foot of the pass is 3.5–4 hours. The ascent to the pass goes along a wide, steep couloir covered with small and medium talus. In the middle and upper part of the couloir, the talus is partially covered with snow. The group used snowfields for the ascent. The ascent to the pass takes 2–2.5 hours. On the pass, the group left a note, the pass category is 2A.

72.55

Zharsay, Southeast Ridge, Cat. 1B

The summit "Zharsay" is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau and is situated southeast of the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the "Zharsay" summit is 4650 m. Until 1957, there were no ascents to the "Zharsay" summit. The first complete traverse of the "Zharsay" massif was made by a group of instructors from the "Talgar" alpine camp of the "Metallurg" sports society from August 13 to 18. The group consisted of:

• Kelberg A.V. - leader;
• Sorokin S.V.;
• Porokhnya Yu.I.;
• Chernoshchechkina Z.V. - participants. The path to the foot of the "Zharsay" summit from the "Talgar" alpine camp goes along a trail leading to the training rocks to the east towards the "Ozerny" glacier. The "Ozerny" glacier should be crossed immediately above the training rocks to reach its right (orographic) bank. Along the right part of the "Ozerny" glacier, one needs to proceed southeast to the foot of the "Taverentava" pass. Then, ascend to the pass via a wide couloir covered with medium scree and snow. The descent from the pass is made towards the "Metallurg" glacier. The snow-ice slope is initially traversed to the left, and then to the right, until reaching the rocky outcrops, from which one can descend to the lateral moraines of the glacier. The "Metallurg" glacier cirque is crossed in an easterly direction, and via firn, and then medium rocks, we reach the saddle of the northeast ridge of the "Metallurg" summit. The descent from the saddle towards the "Zharsay" glacier goes along a steep ice slope. Moving along the right part of the glacier, one needs to go around the lateral ridge.

Zhestar (4200 m)

Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B difficulty

The Zhestar peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system, which stretches for up to 20 km in a north-northeast direction from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, and serves as a watershed between the valleys of the Kargalinka and Prokhodnaya rivers. The route begins from the Prokhodnoye gorge. Passing by the Alma-Arasan resort and the coniferous forest zone, head upwards towards the Prokhodny Pass. Before reaching it, turn west. From here, the Zhestar peak comes into view. Its southern side is rocky, while the northern slopes are snow-covered. Approach the base of the peak along the southeastern ridge, traversing the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier. Continue along the talus, slightly to the right, between the southeastern and northeastern ridges without ascending to the ridge. Staying close to the southeastern ridge, overcome a steep, rockfall-prone couloir, then ascend to the eastern ridge and proceed along it to the base of the summit tower. The ascent from the southern side follows a faintly defined couloir. Descend via the ascent route or along the northern ridge. The climb takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Alma-Ata climbers A. Maryashev and S. Kuderin.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier.

Route Description

The Seven Spires of Tuyuk-Su are located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur and stretch from northeast to southwest. Each Spire has its unique shape:

• The first and second resemble the back of a two-humped camel
• The seventh resembles a fang in its outlines Almost all of them have ridges of rocks descending to the south. The traverse of Tuyuk-Su Spires begins with an approach to the Tuyuk-Su glaciers and Tuyuk-Su Spires under the eponymous pass. The initial bivouac is on the black moraine opposite the Igla Tuyuk-Su pass. The ascent to the pass should start early on a snow-ice slope with an increasing steepness up to 55°. Insurance is provided through an ice axe, and when there are outcrops, ice screws are used. Crevices are overcome using snow bridges with careful insurance. Due to possible rockfalls, one should proceed along the middle. The traverse begins with the seventh Spire on heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty. Descent is made along the ascent path, and then towards the sixth Spire, which is a 30-meter pyramid with a smooth red wall. The ascent up it is complicated:
• There are few footholds;

Тraverse of the entire massif from Iiyintau to Peak Gorin, route 5B cat. diff. (fig. 43, 43a). If the approach starts from the Talgar alpine camp, go up the Middle Talgar gorge, turn in the direction of the Kopr glacier (see road sign). Approach to the Kopr glacier via ancient moraines:

• terminal,
• then lateral, right. The trail is clearly visible. Go to Rakhimov's bivouac at the tongue of the glacier. Here are well-prepared places for a tent. From the camp to Rakhimov's bivouac - 4 hours walk. From the bivouac in the eastern direction, along the left part of the glacier along the ridge of the Sportivnaya peak, to the bergschrund. The bergschrund is bypassed on the left or crossed via a snow bridge. Turn right, go along the bergschrund to the first destroyed rocks. Here is the so-called Kel's tur. The height is gained gradually. From here, diagonally ascent along the ice-snow slope (steepness up to 50°). Go to a not very high, heavily destroyed ridge. At the top, beyond the end of the ridge, there is a section of ice 15-20 m. Go on crampons with hook belay (cautiously!). Behind it is a section of heavily destroyed rocks, which turn into a rocky ridge, interspersed with snowy sections. Behind this ridge, turn left onto a snowfield and exit onto the ridge of the Kopr peak. From the ice section, there is a second option for passing this segment - exit left from the rocks up the snowfield to the ridge of the Kopr peak. Here, turn right. After 50-60 m:
• Priyut Pyati (Five Shelter) at the rocks

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Maximum 6 participants.
2. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier.
3. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am.
4. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

Climbing Area Map

Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Galtvagar-po-otene-Idintaou. Traverse of Nintau Tapgars, ascent via W. wall of Nintau
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference 1500 m.
• length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 435 m.
• average steepness — 53°.

6. Pitons used:

• for creating artificial belays (i.t.o.) — 3 rock pitons

INETAU (4038 m)

Ascent from the Constitution Glacier, route 1B cat. complexity (fig. 4). The INETAU peak is located in the northern spur extending from the 10 Years of Kazakh SSR peak and separating the Toguzak Glacier from the Constitution Glacier. It is a pronounced eminence on the ridge. From the Toguzak Glacier side, it appears as a sharp needle on a snowy base, while from the Constitution Glacier side, the summit tower rises amidst a jumble of rocky debris from the destroyed ridge. From the initial bivouac, conveniently set up on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier, cross the terminal moraines of the glacier towards the talus at the start of the ridge. Ascend the talus to the ridge. Cross the ridge to reach the right lateral moraine of the Constitution Glacier. Follow the moraine ridge to an isolated rock near the ridge, and from there, via a gully, exit onto the ridge to a gendarme composed of red rocks. The first control cairn is located on it. Bypass the next gendarme to the left on snow (ice is possible!). Subsequent gendarmes are bypassed on both sides. After them, cross a small couloir between the main ridge and a group of rocks to the right. Continue along the ridge of moderately difficult rocks upwards to a distinct gendarme. The second cairn is located here. Descend from it onto a snowy-icy saddle before a table-like gendarme and bypass it to the right. Then, ascend medium rocks and talus to a tower with a snowy belt. The ascent to it involves the following sections:

• medium rocks
• inclined slabs