Zhestar (4200 m)
Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B difficulty
The Zhestar peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system, which stretches for up to 20 km in a north-northeast direction from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, and serves as a watershed between the valleys of the Kargalinka and Prokhodnaya rivers.
The route begins from the Prokhodnoye gorge. Passing by the Alma-Arasan resort and the coniferous forest zone, head upwards towards the Prokhodny Pass. Before reaching it, turn west. From here, the Zhestar peak comes into view. Its southern side is rocky, while the northern slopes are snow-covered. Approach the base of the peak along the southeastern ridge, traversing the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier.
Continue along the talus, slightly to the right, between the southeastern and northeastern ridges without ascending to the ridge. Staying close to the southeastern ridge, overcome a steep, rockfall-prone couloir, then ascend to the eastern ridge and proceed along it to the base of the summit tower.
The ascent from the southern side follows a faintly defined couloir. Descend via the ascent route or along the northern ridge. The climb takes 6–7 hours.
The first ascent was made in 1951 by Alma-Ata climbers A. Maryashev and S. Kuderin.
Recommendations for Climbers
- The number of participants is not limited.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4: 2 x 30 m dynamic ropes.