Ascent Log

Ascent Category	— rock climbing
Ascent Area	— Trans-Ili Alatau
Peak	— Shkolnik, 3850 m North-West ridge, 2A category of difficulty (preliminary)
Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness	— 350 m — 40°–45°
Pitons hammered in	— two — two chocks
Number of travel hours Number of overnight stays	— eight — none
Full name of the leader	— Pitersov V.V. — 1st sports category; Fedorov V.L. — 1st sports category
Team coach	— Public Rescue Team under KSP

7.2. 231

Ascent Registration Form

Ascent category Ascent area Summit Estimated difficulty category Route characteristics Travel time Leader's full name Team coach ОСО

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

Ch. Valikhanov

The peak "Bezymyannaya" (4200 m) is located in a lateral ridge branching off the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau between the peaks Suleiman Stalsky and OPTЭ, to the northeast towards Lake Shokalsky. The northern slopes of the peak are icy with rocky outcrops, while the southern slopes are steep rocky walls and counterforts separated by couloirs (photo #1). The approach to the peak from the "Talgar" camp goes as far as the green glade below Lake Kroshka and further along the moraine of Lake Shokalsky; we approach the beginning of the ridge where a night's stay is organized. Approach time: 4–5 hours.

Description of the ascent route

The ascent path goes to the northeastern ridge. The exit to the ridge is made along the third couloir descending from the northern slope, in the direction of a characteristic rocky finger resembling the head of the idol Aku-Aku from Easter Island described by Thor Heyerdahl. The lower part of the couloir:

• snowy
• wide The upper part of the couloir:

Peak Choibolsan (4191 m)

Western ascent — Cat. 1B (Fig. 6)

Peak Choibolsan, resembling a rock tower, is located in the watershed ridge system, in the upper reaches of the Ozernaya River valley. The northern side is covered in ice, with rock ridges approaching from three sides, connecting it to:

• the Ozernaya peak to the east,
• the unnamed "4200 m" peak to the south,
• Almaty Alagir to the west. The northern side of the massif drops off with a nearly sheer wall, whose steepness decreases somewhat at the base. Fig. 6

Chkalova — Fizkultnik traverse, cat. 3A

Route description.

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent to Peak Chkalova via the Northeast ridge. The descent from the summit of Chkalova goes towards the summit of Fizkultnik along the destroyed ridge, which leads to the upper part of the Til glacier. Crossing its moraine, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Overcoming the gendarme, proceed to the main, northern point of the Fizkultnik summit. Ascend via the outer corner (12–15 m), which leads to a ledge running along the western side of the summit tower (piton belay). From the main northern summit, descend in a southerly direction to the Northeast summit and, overcoming it, head southwest through a firn basin towards the western summit. The ascent to the western summit of Fizkultnik is along the ridge, and from it, at a distance of 200 m, is a technically straightforward path to the Southeast summit. Descend from the Southeast summit to the col between Peak Komsomola and the summit of Fizkultnik. From here, descend to the right branch of the Bogdanovich glacier and further down the glacier to the initial bivouac site in the area of the Talgar pass. The traverse takes 10–11 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bogdanovich glacier.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Chkalov Peak, height — 3892 m, route — along the northern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 700 m.
   • Average steepness — 45°.
   • Sections of 5th category of difficulty are absent
6. Pitons driven:

Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west

Route description.

From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible. Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau. Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right. Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit. Descend via the ascent route.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.

Ascent Passport

1. North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Kholodnye Perya (3850 m), via the center of the South Face
3. Category III complexity
4. Route type — rock climbing
5. Route height difference — 180 m Route length — 256 m Length of sections:

• Category V complexity — 3 meters Average steepness:
• main part of the route — 75 degrees
• entire route — 55 degrees

The approach is via Mynzhilki cape past the Black rock. Climb up the gully between the moraine and talus slope to the left, towards peak O. Voiny. Continue along the moraine ridges to the south along the trail to the first rocky spur on the left (peak Kholodnye Per'ya). Here, on the rocks, yellow-painted crosses are drawn, giving the name to the overnight stays. Further:

• Turn east behind the rocks from "Kresty",
• Traverse the talus slopes,
• Walk along the Severo-Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier. The final steep ascent before the foot of peak Mayakovsky (talus slope between the ice and rocks) is very prone to rockfall. Behind it, turning left, ascend the talus couloir to the saddle (4.5 hours). From here, climb along the rocky ridge to the west on the right via slabs — to the summit. | 1–30°, 50 m, I | | | | --------------- | --------------- | -------------- | | 2–70°, 5 m, III | 5–60°, 8 м, II | 8–0°, 15 м, I |