INETAU (4038 m)

Ascent from the Constitution Glacier, route 1B cat. complexity (fig. 4).

The INETAU peak is located in the northern spur extending from the 10 Years of Kazakh SSR peak and separating the Toguzak Glacier from the Constitution Glacier. It is a pronounced eminence on the ridge. From the Toguzak Glacier side, it appears as a sharp needle on a snowy base, while from the Constitution Glacier side, the summit tower rises amidst a jumble of rocky debris from the destroyed ridge.

From the initial bivouac, conveniently set up on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier, cross the terminal moraines of the glacier towards the talus at the start of the ridge. Ascend the talus to the ridge. Cross the ridge to reach the right lateral moraine of the Constitution Glacier.

Follow the moraine ridge to an isolated rock near the ridge, and from there, via a gully, exit onto the ridge to a gendarme composed of red rocks. The first control cairn is located on it. Bypass the next gendarme to the left on snow (ice is possible!). Subsequent gendarmes are bypassed on both sides. After them, cross a small couloir between the main ridge and a group of rocks to the right.

Continue along the ridge of moderately difficult rocks upwards to a distinct gendarme. The second cairn is located here. Descend from it onto a snowy-icy saddle before a table-like gendarme and bypass it to the right. Then, ascend medium rocks and talus to a tower with a snowy belt. The ascent to it involves the following sections:

• medium rocks
• inclined slabs