Тraverse of the entire massif from Iiyintau to Peak Gorin, route 5B cat. diff. (fig. 43, 43a).

If the approach starts from the Talgar alpine camp, go up the Middle Talgar gorge, turn in the direction of the Kopr glacier (see road sign). Approach to the Kopr glacier via ancient moraines:

• terminal,
• then lateral, right.

The trail is clearly visible. Go to Rakhimov's bivouac at the tongue of the glacier. Here are well-prepared places for a tent. From the camp to Rakhimov's bivouac - 4 hours walk.

From the bivouac in the eastern direction, along the left part of the glacier along the ridge of the Sportivnaya peak, to the bergschrund. The bergschrund is bypassed on the left or crossed via a snow bridge. Turn right, go along the bergschrund to the first destroyed rocks. Here is the so-called Kel's tur. The height is gained gradually.

From here, diagonally ascent along the ice-snow slope (steepness up to 50°). Go to a not very high, heavily destroyed ridge. At the top, beyond the end of the ridge, there is a section of ice 15-20 m. Go on crampons with hook belay (cautiously!). Behind it is a section of heavily destroyed rocks, which turn into a rocky ridge, interspersed with snowy sections.

Behind this ridge, turn left onto a snowfield and exit onto the ridge of the Kopr peak. From the ice section, there is a second option for passing this segment - exit left from the rocks up the snowfield to the ridge of the Kopr peak. Here, turn right.

After 50-60 m:

• Priyut Pyati (Five Shelter) at the rocks
• Tur with a note

With good snow cover from Rakhimov's bivouac to Priyut Pyati - three hours walk. When the ice is exposed - 5-6 hours.

From Priyut Pyati, the path to Iiyintau is clearly visible. Go on snow through two snow rises, leaving the rocks on the right. Beyond the rises straight up to the bergschrund. Steepness 35°, bergschrund width up to 1.5 m. Cross with careful belay. Behind the bergschrund, turn right. Steepness up to 55°. Hook belay and step cutting are necessary. The length of the slope is up to 40 m, diagonally forward to the rocky ridge, along which go sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left. Rocks are average, but hook belay is necessary (great destruction and depth of fall). Go to the gendarme on the shoulder. On it is a tur with a note. From the shoulder through two gendarmes approach under the North Talgar peak. The first gendarme is taken head-on, the second - from the right. Then go slightly below the ridge on the right side. The exit to the North peak - on a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 30°. No tur. In poor visibility on the summit plateau, go cautiously and attentively, easily deviating to the side.

From the North peak to the Main peak, transition along the plateau in the southern direction. Under the Main peak, in the depression at the rocks, is a tur with a note. Here is the site of the third bivouac. In summer, there is a small lake here. From the bivouac, 30-40 m ascent on snow (up to 20°) and exit to the Main Talgar peak. From the Main peak to the southeast to the ridge leading to the South Talgar peak. The ridge is sharp, there are cornices (cautiously!). The length of the ridge is up to 200 m. The tur of the South peak is in destroyed rocks.

From the South peak in the southern direction down three snow-ice descents to the yellow rock in the ridge, descending steeply in the southwest direction. From the yellow rock, descent to the right - down at the very beginning along a narrow couloir, leading to a wide snowy couloir. The rocky ridge remains on the left. Descend with careful belay through the ice axe on 100-120 m. Steepness up to 45°. Exit left onto destroyed rocks and descend into the Talgar failure to a large gendarme. Here at the very beginning of the failure section - a tur with a note and a good place for overnight stay.

When exiting the failure, bypass the gendarme on the left side and along the snow-ice slope, left of the rocky ridge, exit onto the ridge leading to the southeast Talgar peak. Ascent along the ridge. Rocks are average, sometimes difficult (2-3 hooks). Exit to the southeast Talgar peak.

Descend in the eastern direction to the saddle between Peak Gorin and southeast Talgar. From the saddle - in the southeast direction to Peak Gorin. The ridge is composed of average rocks, passed with alternating belay through ledges in 1-1.5 hours.

From the summit of Peak Gorin, descend onto the plateau in the direction