Ascent Passport

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), via the Western slope couloir and the Northern ridge
3. Category 2A difficulty level
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 1110 m Route length — 2255 m Length of sections: Category V difficulty — none Average steepness:

• main part of the route (sections 8–10) — 55 degrees

Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge

Route description.

A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point. From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:

• Turn towards North-West ridge.
• Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
• From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
• Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
• Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side —

ASCENT LOG

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), South Ridge
3. Cat. 1B diff.
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 70 m. Route length — 550 m. Length of sections: Cat. V diff. — none. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections R9–R11, R16) — 75°
   • entire route — 30°

Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Ascent to the Akgyul summit via the Uraltsev pass, route 2А cat. diff. (fig. 24, 24a). The Akgyul summit is located in the northern part of the Issykteng — Chokhu spur. Route:

• From the Talgar mountaineering camp
• Through the Zelyonaya Polyana
• To the Uraltsev pass Features:
• In the area of the Uraltsev pass, there are many crevasses on the Shokalsky glacier (be careful!)
• A bivouac can be set up on the Uraltsev pass From the Uraltsev pass, go along the main ridge, then turn southeast onto the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

White Peak (4700 m)

Ascent to the White Peak summit via Akgyul peak, route 2B cat. diff.

From the Talgar alpine camp through Surovyy pass to the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier. Here, overnight stay. The path to the White Peak summit goes through Akgyul peak. From the overnight stay, go to the main ridge via scree. Reach the junction of the ridge with the Issykten-Chokhu spur, turn onto it and along the ridge of the spur approach the foot of Akgyul's summit dome. The ridge has several drops. To the right are ruined rocks. A snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35° leads to the summit dome. Alternate insurance is needed, and at the end of the season, when ice appears, the use of ice screws is possible (2-3 hooks). From Akgyul peak, the path goes along the ridge in a southeast direction, then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40-45° and a length of up to 300 m. Crampons and screw insurance are needed. The slope leads to a saddle between Akgyul and White Peak. From the saddle, along a snow-ice ridge with a length of up to 2.5 km. Crevasses are encountered. Insurance is needed. In 2-2.5 hours, the foot of White Peak is reached. The ascent to the summit is along a snowy slope up to 30°. To the left are snowdrifts and cornices. Deviate to the right. In an hour, the summit is reached. A cairn is on the rocks. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Return to the camp via Surovyy pass.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - up to 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac no later than 5:00.

Akkum (4098 m)

Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)

The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment. Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree. From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side. In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made. After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:

• several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again. Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.

7.28

Republican Climbers' and Tourists' Club

Report

• ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AKSAI HORSESHOE BY A GROUP OF CLIMBERS FROM THE REPUBLICAN CLIMBING CLUB
• (March 1-8, 1959) 1959 Alma-Ata

Orography of the Aksai Horseshoe Area

From the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, a powerful Kaskelen spur branches off northwards at Peak Tur (4720 m). For the first 2 km, this spur separates the glaciers:

• Kaskelen (basin of the right tributary of the Kaskelen River),

Description of the AKSAY Horseshoe Traverse

Alma-Ata, 1963 The ridge of the Aksay horseshoe between peaks II and III.

Team I Leader

Master of Sports Mar'yashev A.

Team Members

1. Toporkov A. - 2nd sports category

Almaty-Alagir (4223 m)

Ascent from the northwest side — cat. diff. 1B

The summit of Almaty-Alagir is located in the watershed ridge system at the head of the Ozerny gorge and is the highest point in the area. Long, gradually descending ridges stretch to the south and southwest from it. To the north lies a snowy-ice slope, and to the east, the snow cover is interspersed with talus sections. It is more convenient to ascend from the Prokhodnoye valley, from the northwest side. Climbing up the valley, bypass the Alma-Arasan resort (the Big Almaty spur stretches to the right). Before reaching the Prokhodnoy pass, turn left towards the unnamed "3400 m" pass, located between the Almaty-Alagir and Karniznaya peaks. From the latter, a small ridge extends towards the Prokhodnoye valley. Leaving the pass on the left side, reach the moraine of a small glacier descending into the Prokhodnoye valley. The glacier is not steep, intersected here and there by large crevasses. Ahead are the ridge slopes of the Almaty-Alagir peak. Without traversing the entire glacier, turn left. Attention should be paid to the northwest side of the summit, from which rocky ridges descend, separated by wide couloirs. Then, ascend one of the couloirs with a steepness of 40–45°, at the bottom of which lies coarse, loose talus. Exercising caution, ascend to the shoulder of the summit and follow a gentle slope to the top. Descend via the ascent route. The entire ascent takes 6–7 hours. M. T. Pogrebetskiy first reached this summit in 1927. The first ascent from the eastern side was made in 1952 by Almaty climbers K. Menzhulin and A. Maryashev.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymyaniy Glacier.