1. Ascent via the couloir and the southeastern ridge.
2. Ascent via the northwestern ridge.
3. Ascent via the northern wall. Ascent to the summit of Karaulchitaus via the couloir and the southeastern ridge, category 1B difficulty route (fig. 32). The Karaulchitaus summit is located in a lateral spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau range, branching off from the Aktau summit to the northwest and bearing the same name. The Karaulchitaus summit is the extreme northwestern point of this spur. The path to the summit from the "Talgar" mountaineering camp goes along the trail through the gorge. Rounding the foot of Karaulchitaus from the west, move to the tongue of the Shokalsky glacier, then turn left and ascend the moraines of the Salanov glacier. After 4-5 hours of walking from the camp, a horizontal sandy area, convenient for a bivouac, is reached. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac on the Sandy area begins along the talus, then goes through the couloir leading to the saddle between the Karaulchitaus and Chekist summits. The ascent through the couloir, depending on the time of season, is either on ice covered with snow or on talus, sometimes icy, sometimes snow-covered. Steepness is 30-35°. From the saddle, turn left and move along the ridge with drops of no more than 30° steepness. After 30-40 minutes of movement along the ridge, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The total ascent time from the overnight stay on the Sandy area is 5-6 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

Ка­ра­уль­чи­тау becomes Kar­aul­chi­tau

Ascent to Karaulchitaus via the Northwest Ridge, category 4B (Fig. 33). From the Talgar alpine camp to the initial bivouac at Zelyonaya Polyana — 2–3 hours walking. Approach:

• From Zelyonaya Polyana, approach the western ridge and enter the left couloir.
• Ascend along the ridge for 25–30 meters.
• Then begin ascending left along the ridge for 40–50 meters. The rocks are average. Insurance is via pitons and ledges. Further, the ridge stretches for 150–200 meters. The rocks are of average difficulty. Five not very pronounced gendarmes are overcome head-on with piton insurance. After the fifth gendarme, exit onto slabs with an angle of up to 35°. Further, with piton insurance, at the base of a sheer gendarme. Here, the 1st cairn is built. Bypassing the gendarme is impossible. From the control cairn, move right along the slabs for 20–30 meters, crossing a steep groove in the upper part, and exit onto a platform to a sheer black rock. Immediately from the platform, climb 4 meters up, then right onto a platform under a rocky cornice. From the platform, exit onto a sheer smooth wall without holds. Here, apply a human ladder. Then, along a ledge, reach an internal corner closed by an upper slab. Exit from the corner via a negative section. Insurance is via pitons. Behind the internal corner, exit onto a ridge of easy rocks for 70–80 meters. Here, on the ridge, is an overnight stay. The travel time from the initial bivouac is 8–9 hours.

Fig. 33

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Photo of 4 Corner Peaks of the traverse:

• 6th along Korablestroitelstvo
• Chekist
• Solntsevo
• AktiU

Romana Ziasto traversing: 8th: Mine-maw, S. Tolgar, P. Tolgar, N. Tolgar, “right”, N. V. Tolgar (left — right)

Help Section 9 is located from the 8th circle (superba) to the 8th Geraanuriz cheba in Chirou with peso.

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Kara-Tau via the Southwest Ridge

Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau range. Covered in eternal snows, it stretches in a latitudinal direction for over 200 km. In its central part, it takes a direction close to meridional and reaches a height of five kilometers in the powerful Talgar trapezoid. East of Talgar is the peak Metallurg, whose pyramid rises to 4800 meters; to the southwest is Iyn-Tau, which raises its summit to 4830 meters. Against this backdrop, all other peaks seem like dwarfs, not representing sporting interest for climbers. But this is not the case. To the north of Metallurg peak, a spur called Ala-Tas (Motley stones) extends. In this spur, beyond the Taverentava pass, lies the Kara-Tau peak (Black mountain), for which the usual path via the Taverentava pass is not difficult and is classified as category 2A. From the west, three rocky ridges lead to the Kara-Tau peak, each representing significant sporting interest and considerable difficulty to overcome:

• the first ridge;
• the second ridge;
• the third ridge.

Karlytau 1B cat. via Komosomolsky Pass

Route Description.

The snow-ice dome of Karlytau peak is located in the Maloalmatinsky spur, somewhat south of the majestic pyramid of Peak Komosomola. Its snow-white cap is clearly visible from Almaty. Karlytau is situated between the passes:

• Komosomolsky (to the north)
• Manshuk Mametova (to the south). To the west, a snowy ridge connects it to the peak Geroev Panfilovtsev. To the east, towards the Left Talgar gorge, a ridge stretches from the peak, crowned by