PASSPORT
I. Class: technical 27. Tian-Shan 3. Peak: Zapadny Albatros via the north wall. Category 5A difficulty, presumably the 3rd ascent. 4. Elevation gain: 550 m Route length: 740 m, average slope 60° 5. Pitons hammered: * rock - 23 * ice - 47 Leader: Lashkov A.K. Coach: Kovensky G.I.
August 1983
From the bivouacs, keeping to the right side of the glacier, we approach the start of the route (1 hour).
Movement towards the rock counterfort.
The left section R0–R6 is protected from falling rocks by this counterfort. Preliminary observation, as well as observation during the ascent, showed that the R0–R6 section is safe from rockfall. Signs of rockfall were noted to the left and right of the route.
Our group started the route without prior processing. Standard equipment was used.
Movement on the R0–R6 section is alternating with rope team interaction. The first person goes on two ice axes. All participants are on a double rope. Ice screws are used for belays.
R6–R7 section. The steepest ice section bypasses an overhanging rock. Exit to a rock ledge. A good spot for belay. Boxes are used for belay.
Further movement to the right along the ledge, then straight up along a clear ridge for 15 m under a vertical wall. Crevices are filled with snow. And then up to the I control cairn along an inclined ledge (R7–R8).
From the control cairn along an indistinct ridge and inner corner to a ledge under a black overhanging wall. Up and left along the wall to an inner corner and along the corner to the II control cairn (R9–R10).
Then along a sharp ice ridge to the pre-summit ridge (R10–R11) and along it to the summit (R11–R12).
Descent to Epyur pass.
Route Profile
| Section | Length | Average slope | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| R11–R12 | 200 m | 3 | |
| R10–R11 | 100 m | 50° | 4 |
| R9–R10 | 60 m | 80° | 5 |
| R8–R9 | 40 m | 70° | 4 |
| R7–R8 | 60 m | 80° | 5 |
| R6–R7 | 50 m | 60° | 5 |
| R5–R6 | 40 m | 55° | 5 |
| R4–R5 | 40 m | 55° | 5 |
| R3–R4 | 40 m | 55° | 5 |
| R2–R3 | 40 m | 55° | 5 |
| R1–R2 | 40 m | 55° | 5 |
| R0–R1 | 30 m | 55° | 5 |
Additional notes on sections:
- R11–R12: Exit to the summit. Simultaneous movement. On ice.
- R10–R11: Alternating movement. The ridge drops steeply to the right. Caution! Ice under snow!
- R9–R10: Steep. Holds are filled with ice. It is advisable to traverse to the ledge to the I control cairn. Caution! Live blocks.
- R8–R9: Holds are filled with ice and snow.
- R7–R8: Rocks with flow ice.
- R6–R7: Movement along the boundary between rock and ice, bypassing an overhanging rock, with an exit to a ledge.
- R0–R1: Movement with fixed ropes and ice screws, ice axes. Ice is covered with 5-7 cm of snow.
- R0: Movement towards a cluster of rocks and a bergschrund with a cornice.