PASSPORT

1. Class — traverses
2. Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Traverse of Peak Blyukhera (4720 m) — Peak Karbysheva (4700 m) with ascent through the center of the bastion
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., 2nd passage variant
5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1370 m.

Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 500 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° /14650-43001 Of which 6 cat. diff. //,-°/

6. Pitons driven:

   rock 67, bolt — chocks 168, ice 5

7. Team's travel hours: 20 h 30 min, days — 2.

8. Overnights: one — site on a snow-ice slope.

9. Leader: Kozel V.M., CMS

   Participants:

   Kovensky E.I., CMS

   Shcherbinsky G.V., CMS

   Tyurin A.S., CMS

10. Coach Kovensky G.I., CMS

11. Exit to the route: August 21, 1986

    Summit: August 21, 1986

    Return: August 22, 1986

Photo from the moraine of the Ontor glacier. Overall distance — 3 km. Photo of the summit. T-22 lens Г = 75 mm. Shooting point 1.

Description of route sections, Peak Blyukhera–Peak Karbysheva:

PROTOCOL

Analysis of the ascent, traverse of Peak Blyukhera — Peak Karbysheva with ascent through the center of the bastion (team of the RSS Council DFSS trade unions of the BSSR)

August 21, 1986 – August 22, 1986

Present: Kozel V.M. (leader), Kovensky E.I., Shcherbinsky G.V., Tyurin A.S., group supervisor — Kovensky G.I., training camp coach Kovensky V.I., head of the training department AUSP Ala-Too Boshman V.F.

Spoke: ascent leader Kozel V.M.

The group left the bivouac at 5:00, reached the beginning of the route via moraine and glacier, and started moving along the route at 6:30. At the beginning, the route goes through steep ice and rocks. Movement with insurance through ice screws and chocks.

At 7:00, the group reached snow-covered inclined slabs. Climbing is tense. The group worked on the principle: "person — rope." Exit to the wall via the slabs. At 12:00, the group reached under the bastion. Climbing is very tense, rock category — VI. At 15:30, the group reached the edge of the bastion and exited to the summit of Peak Blyukhera via a simple ridge. Summit exit — 16:30.

At 17:00, the group began moving along the ridge towards Peak Karbysheva. The ridge is complex, consists of steep slabs, walls. The descent includes three rappels and three sport descents. Rappelling complexity: oblique, reception ledges are very small, in two cases — relocation while suspended. After descending to the saddle via the South ridge, the group reached the summit of Peak Karbysheva. The ridge consists of slabs. During the ascent (this season), the slabs were snow-covered, with some places having formed ice. Movement — according to the previous scheme. Summit of Peak Karbysheva — 21:30.

Then descent via the 3A difficulty category route. Bivouac for overnight stay — near the gendarmes on the ridge between Peak Karbysheva and Peak Djuklo. The next day, the group started on the route at 8:00 and returned to the bivouac at 11:00.

The group worked competently, quickly, with good mutual understanding, and in compliance with safety rules.

Tyurin A.S. The route is complex, meets the requirements of 5B cat. diff. Special attention should be paid to movement along inclined slabs before exiting to the bastion. There are "live" blocks. No complaints against the group members and leaders.

Shcherbinsky G.V. The ascent was organized tactically competently. Mountaineering rules were observed throughout the entire route. The group worked very cohesively.

Boshman V.F. Your passage is an original variant of the second passage of this traverse. The route is interesting, complex, diverse, and exceeds the standard 5B cat. diff. route on Peak Blyukhera. I want to note the clarity and speed of the team's actions, tactical competence.

Kovensky G.I. I believe that the ascent was done competently, clearly, in good style, and very dynamically. The route is interesting. Leadership and ascent are to be counted.

Supervisor: Kovensky G.I. Secretary: Tarasevich V.N.