I. Technical Category
- Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too
- v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress
- Proposed category: 5B
- Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°.
- Pitons used:
rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –
- Team's total climbing time: 22 hours, days: 3
- Overnight stops: 1st - on the moraine, 2nd - on the ridge
- Team leader: Lukyanov Vladimir Sergeevich - Candidate Master of Sports
Team members:
- Lukyanov Alexander Sergeevich - 1st sports category
- Sveshnikov Boris Vladimirovich - Candidate Master of Sports (qualifying this season)
- Khivtsov Lev Borisovich - 1st sports category.
- Coach: Kubonina Tamara Vasilievna - Master of Sports of the USSR
- Approach to the route: August 15, 1984
summit: August 16, 1984
return: August 17, 1984
General photo of the summit
Taken on August 15, 1984, at 16:00. Distance to the object: 1 km. Lens: "INDUSTAR-50", t.s. W1 — — — TEAM'S ROUTE
Profile of the wall from the right / from the southwest /
Taken on August 15, 1984, at 10:00. T.S.W2. Height: 3600 m. Distance to the object: 800 m.
Panoramic photo of the area
Taken on July 20, 1984, at 15:00. T.S. No. 3. Height 3800 m. Distance to the object: 7 km. Lens "INDUSTAR-50".
Technical photo of the route
Taken on August 15, 1984, at 14:00. T.S. No. 3. Height 3480 m. Distance 300 m. According to the tactical plan, the ascent to v. Festivalnaya via the NW buttress was made by a team consisting of:
Lukyanov V.S., born 1954 - Candidate Master of Sports; Lukyanov A.S., born 1952 - 1st sports category; Sveshnikov B.V., born 1951 - Candidate Master of Sports (qualifying this season); Khivtsov L.B., born 1953 - 1st sports category.
The ascent was made according to the backup plan, i.e., with preliminary route preparation.
August 15 The rope team Lukyanov A. - Khivtsov prepared the route on sections R0-R8 (Lukyanov A. was the lead climber). After preparation, the team descended to the moraine for the night (at 12:00).
August 16 The team in full strength with full camping gear started the route. After ascending via the fixed ropes, the rope team Lukyanov V. - Sveshnikov took the lead. Lukyanov V. was the lead climber on sections R9-R14 and R19-R21. Sveshnikov was the lead climber on sections R15-R18 and R22-R23. Overnight stop on the ridge (lying down).
August 17 Movement along the ridge was simultaneous, with protection through rock outcrops. Descent was made via a couloir from the saddle between vv. Festivalnaya and Slonenok until the couloir was sunlit. The team descended to the moraine under v. Festivalnaya at 12:30.
The team's communication with observers was regular via "Vitalka" radio.
| Pitons | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rock | Nut | Ice | Section Nos. | Steepness (deg) | Length (m) | Difficulty |
| - | - | 4 | R0-R1 | 90 | 5 | 5 |
| - | - | 6 | R1-R2 | 50 | 50 | 4 |
| 2 | - | - | R2-R3 | 50 | 15 | 4 |
| 6 | 2 | - | R3-R4 | 60 | 20 | 5 |
| 5 | 3 | - | R4-R5 | 90 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | 1 | - | R5-R6 | 70 | 30 | 5 |
| 4 | 3 | - | R6-R7 | 70 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | 2 | - | R7-R8 | 70 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | 2 | - | R8-R9 | 60 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | - | - | R9-R10 | 65 | 40 | 4 |
| - | 3 | - | R10-R11 | 75 | 40 | 4 |
| - | - | 2 | R11-R12 | 50 | 20 | 4 |
| 4 | 2 | - | R12-R13 | 75 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | - | - | R13-R14 | 75 | 50 | 5 |
| 5 | 4 | - | R14-R15 | 90 | 30 | 6 |
| 10 | 6 | - | R15-R16 | 50 | 120 | 5 |
| 7 | - | - | R16-R17 | 65 | 50 | 5 |
| 5 | - | - | R17-R18 | 75 | 50 | 5 |
| 9 | 2 | - | R18-R19 | 90 | 40 | 6 |
| 8 | - | - | R19-R20 | 80 | 40 | 5 |
| 6 | 2 | - | R20-R21 | 50 | 40 | 4 |
| 4 | - | 3 | R21-R22 | 50 | 40 | 5 |
| - | - | 6 | R22-R23 | 40 | 70 | 4 |
| - | - | 6 | R23-R24 | 40 | 70 | 4 |
Route description by sections
August 15 Route preparation.
SECTION R0-R1 The route starts from the bergschrund, which is overcome first through a snow plug and then via an ice wall (90°) - 5 m.
SECTION R1-R2 Ascend the ice slope to the boundary of the buttress rocks. Exit to a ledge.
SECTION R2-R3 Follow the inclined rock ledge to the right to an internal angle.
SECTION R3-R4 Ascend the internal angle to a crevice. The 1st control cairn is set - a can with a note on a piton.
SECTION R4-R5 Up and left through the crevice to a large snow-covered ledge, then move left to the base of a large internal angle.
SECTION R5-R6 The internal angle leads to a wall ending in overhanging blocks.
SECTION R6-R7 Ascend the wall. The overhang is bypassed on the right.
SECTION R7-R8 The internal angle formed by large blocks is bypassed on the right via slabs. From the start of the route, 5 ropes of 40 m. Descent to the moraine under the start of the route.
August 16 Ascent via fixed ropes to the upper anchoring point.
SECTION R8-R9 The rock wall leads to a characteristic white rock belt (1st).
SECTIONS R9-R11 Ascend inclined slabs and a wall to a massive rock outcrop. The 2nd control cairn is set. Possible overnight stop.
SECTION R11-R12 Crossing snow-covered ledges, exit to an internal angle that goes left.
SECTIONS R12-R14 Ascend the right side of the internal angle and then the wall to the base of a chimney.
SECTION R14-R15 Ascend the chimney to an overhang. Bypass the overhang on the left.
SECTION R15-R16 Ascend the wall to the second white rock belt. Then ascend to the right of the sheer wall.
SECTIONS R16-R18 Ascend walls to the base of a large internal angle that leads to a large couloir.
SECTION R18-R19 Internal angle with characteristic rusty streaks. The overhang is bypassed on the left.
SECTION R19-R20 Ascend the wall left of the large couloir (the couloir is rockfall-prone!) to a ridge.
SECTION R20-R21 Ascend easy rocks to the right edge of a snowfield. Caution - "live" slabs!!
SECTION R21-R22 Ascend icy rocks to large overhanging slabs, overcome them "en face".
SECTION R22-R23 Ascend ice-covered rocks to the ridge. Prepare the overnight stop.
August 17
SECTION R23-R24 The sharp ridge is traversed mainly on its left side. Exit to the summit - at 900 m. Descent from the summit to the saddle between vv. Festivalnaya and Slonenok. Then descend via an ice couloir to rocks ("rappel" 40 m) and then down to the glacier.
During the ascent, the team used rock pitons of various configurations and nut protection. On ice sections, protection was provided by ice screws (titanium).
