Passport
I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in:
rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors
- Travel time: 12 hours.
- Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.
- Team composition:
- Bogomolov Mikhail Grigorievich — 1st sports category.
- Utochkin Dmitry Vasilievich — 1st sports category.
- Coach: Bezlyudny Petr Panteleevich — Candidate Master of Sports. II. Departure to the route: August 2, 1983. Summit: August 2, 1983. Return: August 2, 1983.
 |
|---|
Route photograph
Route profile
M 1:2500
The route goes to the left of the waterfall flowing from a narrow, snow-filled couloir in the upper part, in the left part of the East wall, between two large cornices in the middle part of the wall.
R0–R1. Approach to the rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" via a gentle snow slope. R1–R2. Move up and to the right to approach the red rock wall under the "Claw" cornice. R2–R4. Ascend via the red rocks with overhanging sections at the top (left is a black overhanging wall, right is a wet wall with black streaks) — up to a small internal corner three meters to the right of the "Claw" cornice. Wet rocks with a limited number of cracks. R4–R6. Ascend via the internal corner and then move right to bypass the overhanging rocks of the "Claw" cornice, leading to a ledge with a control cairn. R6–R7. Traverse a wide, gentle ledge to the right to bypass a large cornice, reaching a small chimney-crack. R7–R8. Ascend via the small chimney-crack and then move up and to the left to a large 60-meter internal corner. R8–R9. Alternate between 3–4 meter walls and ledges. Overnight stay possible. R9–R10. Ascend via the right side of the large internal corner to reach a rocky ridge. R10–R11. Ascend a gentle, moderately complex ridge to reach a snow slope. R11–R13. Ascend the snow slope directly up to a snow field, then move right to the summit dome. R13–R14. Ascend to the summit of Tyulenina peak.
