Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72, for creating belay stations: 5. 7. Climbing hours: 13. 8. Overnight stay: one under the route, bivouac. 9. Leader: Cherevko Yuri Vladimirovich, 1st class. Team members:

• Slyusar Pavel Borisovich, 2nd class;
• Drobotenko Nikolai Vladimirovich, 2nd class;
• Panchenko Alexander Vasilievich, 2nd class.

10. Coach: Bezlyudny Petr Panteleevich, Candidate Master of Sports.
11. Departure to the route: August 1, 1983. Reached the summit: August 1, 1983. Return: August 1, 1983.

General route photo

Wall profile photo

Map of the ascent area

Route profile. Scale 1:2500

Route description

From the overnight stay by the lake, approach to the route is initially across the talus and then across the glacier for 1.5 hours. The start of the route is to the right of the wall with black streaks and to the left of the couloir with the waterfall. Traverse easy rocks (60 m) to below the wall. Then ascend the wall (90 m) towards the "Kleshnya" cornice (difficult climbing, artificial aids). Bypass the cornice on the right across difficult rocks.

After the cornice, reach a ledge. Control cairn.

Along the ledge rightwards and upwards towards the waterfall (20 m) and then 20 m up and left across monolithic rocks onto a ledge. From the ledge, descend 30 m across moderately difficult rocks to the base of an internal corner. Ascend the internal corner (70 m, 80°, difficult climbing, artificial aids) and then move left across the wall for 25 m onto a ledge. From the ledge, ascend a broken internal corner (60 m) to the ridge. Follow the ridge to a snowy slope and then across snowy fields to the summit dome and reach the summit.