I. Climbing type: rock, 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, 3. Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B, 5. Route characteristics:
- elevation gain — 910 m,
- length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m,
- average steepness — 68°,
- Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0
- Total climbing hours — 28,
- Number of bivouacs — one, comfortable, lying, safe.
- Bobrov Alexander Mikhailovich, CMS — leader,
- Kovalenko Petr Konstantinovich, CMS
- Morev Nikolai Borisovich, CMS
- Povetin Anatoly Alekseevich, MS
- Takhtabakiev Alik, CMS.
- Team coach: Popenko Yuri Stepanovich, CMSM, Honored Coach of Kazakh SSR.
II. Date of starting the route: June 25, 1986 reaching the summit on June 26, 1986 12. Republican Climbers' Club of Kaz.SSR.
North face of Sairam Peak. 51 Route via North Face 5B cat. difficulty (Sedelnikov) 52. Route via West cf. North Face 5B cat. difficulty (Starlychanov) 53. Route via Central Bastion of North Face 5B cat. difficulty (new route) first ascent by the group.
Profile of North face of Sairam Peak. 51 Route via North Face 5B cat. difficulty (Sedelnokov) 52. Route via West cf. North Face 5B cat. difficulty (Starlychanov) 53. Route via Central Bastion of North Face. 5B cat. difficulty (new route). First ascent by the group.
12
15 14 13 120 m 65° 11 18 120 m 65° 11 5 4 30 m 60° 11 40 m 80°
The route begins via a chimney of the Central Bastion. The chimney is clearly visible, safe, climbing is mainly on the right wall of the chimney, with overhanging sections at the top, overcome head-on. The chimney ends with a cornice.
Further movement is to the right via a crack, which is a continuation of the chimney. Climbing is extremely difficult on belay. This section has a control cairn. The crack leads to a niche.
Further movement:
- straight up a small cleft
- through a series of cornices
To overcome this section, protection devices like "friends" of large sizes were used.
Section 4–5 is a large ledge. Movement along the ledge is left and up to the rocks of the second bastion. The bastion is climbed on its left part. Rocks in the lower part are monolithic, in the upper right part — broken. Climbing is difficult. For belay, the following are used:
- pitons
- protection devices in a wide range
At the top of the second bastion — a comfortable, safe area for a bivouac, second control cairn.
From the bivouac, along the broken ridge upwards, to the black rock, overcoming on the right part — climbing is difficult. When exiting the wall to the edge — loose rocks.
Along the edge — to the rocks of the North Face, on the right is a large couloir.
At the junction of the edge with the rocks of the North Face — ascent to the "roof" of Sairam Peak and further to the summit.
It is recommended to process the lower bastion. Description of the approach to the North Face of Sairam Peak is given:
- by Sedelnikov's group — route via North Face, 5B cat. difficulty
- by Starlychanov's group — route via West cf. North Face, 5B cat. difficulty.