Dugoba. Maly Zamok. Aleksey Tyulyupo

Lyosha Tyulyupo is currently in Dugoba, climbing in the mountains. He would have written this himself, but the internet there is, let's say, unstable. So, he asked me to post a couple of updates, sending the materials through an opportunity. And that's what I'm doing :0)) The first post is about a new route on Maly Zamok (4A) - a description and some thoughts on the topic.... This spring, an article about a new 3B route on Maly Zamok - the mountain closest to the Dugoba alp camp - appeared on "Risk". The experience of the summer gatherings showed that the route turned out to be very much in demand. However, few people know that a 4A route was laid out on the same wall. There were no enthusiasts to climb it during the May gatherings, so I didn't hurry with the report. A few days ago, we made a second ascent and:

• equipped the stations with bolts. Now, we can safely recommend this route to gathering participants with good rock climbing training.

Ascent Passport

2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny 4780 m (approximately via NW ridge). First ascent.
4. Category 4A difficulty.
5. Height difference — 800 m. Section 5 — 40 m. Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35 ice — 10
7. Ascent 14 hours.
8. Overnight on the pre-summit ridge. On fine rubble.
9. Leader — Perlov Mikhail Semenovich, 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Pamir-Altai, ridge — Altai.
2. Peak Bezymannaya, height 4780, via the Central Bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 780 m,
   • length of sections:
     • II difficulty category — 90 m
     • III — 270 m
     • IV — 340 m

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH FROM THE PASS "CHETYREKH" (FOUR) 2B cat. diff. The summit of Kalkush (photo from the summit of Skalnaya) Approach routes:

• From the Dugoba alpine camp, ascend up the left side (orographically) of the Dugoba river to the second confluence (confluence of the Ak-Tash and Dugoba rivers).
• Here are the overnight stays.
• The journey from the alpine camp to the overnight stays takes 2.5–3 hours. From the overnight stays, the path lies to the pass "4-kh". First, upwards in the direction of the Kalkush summit, then under the eastern slopes of the Kalkush summit to the last (along the path) buttress of the summit. The path lies along a good trail. Then, bypassing the buttress, we begin the ascent to the pass "4-kh". The path lies across the scree. The ascent to the pass from the overnight stays takes 2 hours 30 minutes.

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — winter/rock/
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Dughoba valley
3. Peak, route — p. Kalkush (4100 m) via SE wall, cat. 5B (approx.) Length — 750 m of wall section. Height difference — 535 m. Avg. steepness — 73° Length by sections:

• R1 – 255 m
• R2 – 85 m
• R3 – 195 m
• R4 – 20 m

42

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH

VIA THE EAST FACE

Team: G.G. Andreev, CMS, team leader O.I. Shumilov, CMS V.P. Veiko, CMS Yu.A. Logachev, CMS The route was completed on July 12-14, 1969

Description

Climbing Route to the Summit "Komsomolskaya"

The summit "Komsomolskaya" is located in a spur of the Kollektor Ridge on a crest branching off to the northeast from the summit Khamza. The height of the summit is 3900 m. The approach to the summit from the alplager "Dugoba" is upstream along the Dugoba River to the confluence of the Ulitor and Ak-Tash rivers (time 2 hours). From the confluence, it is upstream along a narrow gorge, with the summit as a landmark (see the approach diagram). The path through the gorge to the start of the route takes 1.5 hours. Here is a convenient place for a bivouac: plenty of firewood, water, and flat areas. The ascent route begins on a large grassy slope. Time 1 hour. In the upper part, this slope turns into a medium scree, which must be traversed upwards to the right in the direction of the summit. In the upper part of the scree, two large rock outcrops forming a gate serve as landmarks. Time 1 hour. Having passed through these gates, ascend upwards through the left rocky couloir with simultaneous belay. Time 45 minutes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge. Continue moving to the right along the ridge towards the summit. On the ridge, there is a section of smooth rocks with a slope of 30°–40° and a length of 50 m. This section is overcome with alternate belay through outcrops. Rope rails are convenient for a large group. In June, these rocks may be covered with ice. After this section, continue moving towards the summit slightly below the ridge line. Time 30 minutes. The ascent to the summit takes 3.5–4 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route and takes 1.5 hours. The nature of the route is rocky, but early in the summer, snow and ice are possible.

Konstructors (4100), Cat. 3B, via W ridge Yu. Emelyanenko, 1969 -5-

Access Routes

From the Dugoba tourist centre, the route lies along the Kalkush gorge on the left (orographically) bank of the Kalkush River. Having passed under the slopes of the UROZHAI Peak, we ascend a steep, coarse scree to a large meadow. On the left, the meadow is bordered by the Kalkush Glacier moraine, and on the right by a ridge separating the Kalkush gorge from the Mashalyan gorge. At the end of the meadow, between two streams, near a large boulder, there are camping sites. The meadow is lit by the sun comparatively early. The meadow is called "Solnechnaya" (Sunny). The journey from the Dugoba tourist centre to Solnechnaya meadow takes 4.5–5 hours. A second access route is possible (in case the base camp is located near the second confluence – the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Dugoba rivers): via the Kalkush Pass and then along the Kalkush Glacier moraine to Solnechnaya meadow (the meadow and the ascent route to the summit are clearly visible from the pass). The journey takes 3–3.5 hours. From the camping site, the route lies westwards, along the boundary between the left (orographically) moraine bank and the grassy slope. The ascent proceeds with little gain in altitude almost to the end of the gorge, along wide, gentle, fine scree. Then we turn right and start ascending the ridge along the boundary between the rocks and the scree, bypassing on the left a needle-shaped grey "gendarme". Reaching the ridge is not technically difficult. The time taken to travel from the camping site to the ridge is 50–60 minutes. Here is the 1st control cairn and the start of the route to the unnamed peak located to the west. The ridge drops into the Mashalyan gorge in 300–500-metre walls. The ridge, approximately 250 m long (steepness up to 40°), is traversed simultaneously and leads to the first wall. The steepness of the wall is 90°. From here, technically challenging work begins.

XXXII USSR Climbing Championship – Rock Climbing Category – Pamir-Alai –

Report

The team from the Sports Committee of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR on the ascent of Peak Konstruktors (4100 m) via the center of the left part of the South Face.

1. Mikhailov A.A. — team leader and coach — Master of Sports
2. Kharitonov A.P. — deputy leader — Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Zadvoryev Yu.V. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Povolotsky V.Yu. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports (–9) 07.81

XXXI USSR Championship in Alpinism

• rock climbing class — Ascent Passport 14–7. 14:20 I. Ascent class — rock climbing — 5th category

2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alai; mountain range: Alai
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Konstruktors, 4100 m, via the center of the left part of the South wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference Route length Average steepness of wall sections 5–6 difficulty category 820 m 960 m 78°