Description

Climbing Route to the Summit "Komsomolskaya"

The summit "Komsomolskaya" is located in a spur of the Kollektor Ridge on a crest branching off to the northeast from the summit Khamza. The height of the summit is 3900 m.

The approach to the summit from the alplager "Dugoba" is upstream along the Dugoba River to the confluence of the Ulitor and Ak-Tash rivers (time 2 hours). From the confluence, it is upstream along a narrow gorge, with the summit as a landmark (see the approach diagram). The path through the gorge to the start of the route takes 1.5 hours. Here is a convenient place for a bivouac: plenty of firewood, water, and flat areas.

The ascent route begins on a large grassy slope. Time 1 hour.

In the upper part, this slope turns into a medium scree, which must be traversed upwards to the right in the direction of the summit. In the upper part of the scree, two large rock outcrops forming a gate serve as landmarks. Time 1 hour.

Having passed through these gates, ascend upwards through the left rocky couloir with simultaneous belay. Time 45 minutes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge. Continue moving to the right along the ridge towards the summit. On the ridge, there is a section of smooth rocks with a slope of 30°–40° and a length of 50 m. This section is overcome with alternate belay through outcrops. Rope rails are convenient for a large group. In June, these rocks may be covered with ice. After this section, continue moving towards the summit slightly below the ridge line. Time 30 minutes.

The ascent to the summit takes 3.5–4 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route and takes 1.5 hours.

The nature of the route is rocky, but early in the summer, snow and ice are possible.

The group considers the route to be category 1B difficulty.