PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — winter/rock/
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Dughoba valley
3. Peak, route — p. Kalkush (4100 m) via SE wall, cat. 5B (approx.)

Length — 750 m of wall section. Height difference — 535 m. Avg. steepness — 73°

Length by sections:

• R1 – 255 m
• R2 – 85 m
• R3 – 195 m
• R4 – 20 m

4. Pitons driven: Rock: 53 Camming devices: 63 Bolts: 4 Sky hooks: 18

5. Climbing hours: 22 h 30 min

6. Overnight stops: 1st and 2nd convenient on a ledge.

7. Leader: Grigoryev O.E., MS

Team members:

• Diyarov E.K., MS
• Bukreev V.V., MS
• Shkondin A.V., MS
• Shageev R.R., 1st sports category
• Kasyanenko A.V., 1st sports category

9. Coach — Grigoryev O.E., MS. Senior coach of RSCAAS

10. Route start Approach to the route: March 25. Route start: March 26. Summit: March 28, 1994 Return: March 29.

11. Organization:

• Republican Sports Club of Climbers and Rock Climbers FSSP "Uzbekistan"

Route description by sections

The approach to the route starts on a small scree with a slope of 25° (on the way to the 5A route). 80 m before the end of the scree, turn left and move up through broken rocks towards the wall with a characteristic large cornice. When approaching the wall, a large gap will be visible on the right side — this is the start of the route.

• R0–R2 — Large gap. Climbing is extremely difficult, very steep. ITO was used.
• R3 — Continuation of the gap is traversed on the left side using a sky hook. Large friends are used.
• R4–R5 — Rock resembling a row of pillars. Various gear is used.
• R6–R7 — Descent from the "pillars" and approach to the yellow wall. Snow. Here the route intersects with one of the 5A variations. Overnight stop.
• R8 — Lower part of the yellow wall is traversed in the center, landmark – a noticeable (dead-end) gap, then traverse on sky hooks to the left to the internal corner. ITO was used.
• R9 — Transition to the large gap. Snow.
• R10 — Gap. Climbing is difficult but pleasant. Camming devices are used.
• R11–R12 — Descent from the first part of the yellow wall, friction climbing, traverse to the left in the upper part of the route.
• R13–R15 — Friction climbing, limited handholds.
• R16 — On snowy rocks to the ridge.
• R17 — Along the ridge to the summit (1 h).

Descent is via the classic path towards the Chetyrekh valley.

Tactical actions of the team

The team's tactical actions were carried out in accordance with the tactical ascent plan. All team members have excellent physical fitness and climbing experience, as well as experience in various ascents of any complexity. Preparation for the ascent continued throughout the year. A number of winter ascents were made to Chimgan, where:

• tactical actions were practiced;
• equipment was tested.

The tactical plan was chosen to maximize the use of daylight, as the weather is unstable and changes several times a day. In the group, all participants can work as any number on the route, and because of this, the route was traversed at an increased pace, taking into account increased safety measures. Radio station "Karat" (considered to be the most reliable in winter conditions). Rescue team consists of 4 people with corresponding qualifications.

The selection of equipment was made with the expectation of any state of the wall and terrain, including ice climbing gear:

• tried not to go through ice-filled crevices;
• sky hook;
• various camming devices of domestic production.

The original planned route was peak Mashalyan, but with a large amount of precipitation it was impossible to get there, so a backup option was chosen — peak Kalkush via the SE wall. This peak is known to almost all climbers for its 5A route, which, as we know (all team members have been on this peak), has 4 variations, and we decided to create a direct, beautiful route through the center of the left part of the bastion. We think that anyone who repeats it will get a lot of pleasure from the logic and complexity. It is unlikely that anywhere on a category 5 route you can find serious work on sky hooks and ITO. The location of the control cairns will not allow the route to be bypassed. At the debriefing, everyone unanimously agreed that the route corresponds to category 5B. Provisions and fuel were fully provided.

Team leader O. Grigoryev.