Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society Protocol No. 396 dated April 15, 1975 5A first ascent (daib) AKTASH — 4937 m VIA THE WESTERN EDGE (first ascent) Naumov A.F. Master of Sports

1. Class — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?.
7. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference 600 m;
   • length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none;
   • average steepness 40°
6. Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern spur of south-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: — height difference 600 m; — length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty: none; — average slope 40°

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, mountain range.
3. Gandakush peak, 4300 m, via the eastern spur.
4. Complexity category 3B–4A.
5. Height difference 8500 m, average steepness 45°–49°.
6. 8 rock pitons hammered in for belaying.
7. Total climbing time — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stay (earthen platform) under the route in the Ular-Sai gorge, on the bank of the Ular-Sai river.
9. Team leader — Osminin Vladimir Alekseevich — 1st sports category. Team members: Andrienko Valery Pavlovich — 1st sports category, Moiseev Yuri Mikhailovich — 1st sports category, Sokolovsky Evgeny Alekseevich — 1st sports category, Fedotov Viktor Aleksandrovich — 1st sports category.

Climbing type — rock Climbing area — Alai ridge, Dugoба resort area Peak, its height — Gandakush 3850 m Ascent route — NW edge Proposed category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics — rock Height difference — 3100–3850 m = 750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — none Steepness — 40–44° Number of driven hooks for belay:

ASCENT LOG

XXXI USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Region of ascent, range: Pamir-Alai, Alai range.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Peak 4300 m, height approximately 4500 m, via the left counterfort of the North face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Section lengths:
     • 5A — 120 m
     • 5B — 245 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area, ridge - Archa-Kanysh gorge, Altai ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - peak XXII Olympiad, 4470 m, via the left part of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 750 m of which: eastern wall - 455 m length of sections - 550 m 5B-6B difficulty category

ASCENT LOG 23

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing
2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge
3. Peak, route: p. 4300, via the center of the Eastern wall (1st left)
4. Difficulty category: 5B / 2nd ascent /
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 750 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. 4300, via the center of the eastern wall via the route of V. Grishchenko (2nd place at the XXXI USSR Alpine Championship, rock class) with exit to p. 4450 m
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness: wall — 80°, overall — 65° length of sections: 2nd difficulty — 120 m, 3rd difficulty — 800 m, 4th difficulty — 80 m, 5th difficulty — 425 m, 6th difficulty — 130 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: