M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
3. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
4. Route type: snow-ice.
5. Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.

The Summit!

Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:

• №3
• №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
• strong wind,
• poor visibility.

M53. Peak Uzunkol via the Northwest Ridge

(rock route, category 2B difficulty, led by a Czechoslovak team, 1973) From "Uzunkol", follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the first shepherds' huts. Then, cross two branches of the river and follow the trail to a large clearing, 200 m before the rockfall on the left bank of Myrdy. From here:

• Ascend left-upwards along grassy slopes and overgrown moraine, bypassing the false peak that rises with large sheer walls above the fork of Myrdy — Kichkinekol.
• Continue along grassy slopes and scree to the cirque between the northwest and west ridges of Peak Uzunkol.
• From here, ascend the scree slope, a short snowpatch, and rocks to the depression in the northwest ridge. From "Uzunkol" — 3.5 hours. Then:
• Follow the ridge to the right and, bypassing the first gendarme on the left via a large ledge and slope, overcome the second gendarme "head-on", leaving the rock "finger" below to the right.
• From here, descend on the right side of the ridge to a col to the next small gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a ledge R0.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the northwest route, category 5B difficulty

TEAM LEADER: SHABALIN B.I. — Candidate Master of Sports COACH: SHATAEV V.N. — Master of Sports Moscow 1969

Team Composition

№	Surname I.O.	Year of birth	Sports qualification (rank)	Sports society	Place of residence
1.	SHABALIN B.I.	1927	Candidate Master of Sports	«Spartak»	Moscow