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Route Description: С склону с л. Вальтера, БПП и Большой барьер
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the "Bars" team to Peak Ismoili Somoni via the S slope from Walter Glacier, August 11-20, 2022
Report
On ascending the peak of Ismoila Somoni (formerly Peak Kommunizma) via the southern slope from Walter Glacier, BPP, and "Big Barrier" ("Classics") - ice-snow route, category 5A difficulty, by the "Bars" team from August 11, 2022, to August 20, 2022.
I. Ascent Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Dusheyko Alexander Sergeyevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 1st sports rank (at the time of the ascent, it was pending but not registered) |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: С кф. с л. Вальтера
SSummitMateThe Tomsk team completed a traverse of Peaks Khokhlov and Kommunizma via the northern counterfort from the Walter Glacier, with a 5B complexity rating.
Passport
- Category — High-altitude
- Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range, Walter Glacier
- Traverse of Peak Khokhlova — Peak Kommunizma via the North Counterfort from Walter Glacier (V. Bezzubkin's route)
- 5B category of difficulty
- Elevation gain — 2795 m, length — 4260 m Length of sections with 5–6 categories of difficulty — 1480 m
- Pitons used:
- Rock — 120
- Bolt — 0
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню из ущ. М. Саукдара
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak Lenin's western ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley in 1969.
Report
On ascending Lenin Peak via the Southwest Ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley. First ascent - approximately Category 5B difficulty.
Climbing category — high-altitude.
Team leader: Yushin N.P. Coach: Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K.
Moscow, 1969
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Route Description: С ребру с пер. Дикий
SSummitMateCompleting a Category III climb on the West Ridge of **Pobeda Peak** (6,918 m) in the Central **Tian Shan**, with participation in rescue operations.
Passport
- Altitude-technical class.
- Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
- Pobeda (3) via 3 ridge (6918 m).
- 6A category of complexity, with participation in rescue works.
- Elevation gain: 2518 m, length — 4780 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (West ridge from Diky pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m).
- Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 7. | | Pitons driven: | | | | | :----------: | :------------: | :----------: | :-------: | :------: |
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Kongur (7719) via the counterfort C-3 on the wall, category 6A route in "Alpine" style.
Report
On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)
Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)
1. Climbing Passport
- Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
- Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
- Category of difficulty — 6A.