Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GEOMORFOLOGOV (2155) VIA THE SOUTHERN WALL COULOIR (THROUGH THE BIG FROZEN WATERFALL) CATEGORY 3B ROUTE IN WINTER CONDITIONS FROM 24.02.2023 TO 25.02.2023

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height — v. SOAN, 2952 m, ascent route — South wall
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 652 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 515 m
   • Average steepness of main sections — 72°

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Technical category
2. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge
3. V. Stol, via the left buttress of the NE wall
4. Proposed 6A category. First ascent
5. Height difference — 460 m, length 700 m, sections with 6th category difficulty — 141 m, average steepness — 75°.
6. Pitons left on the route: 10 bolted, 2 "carrots", 1 "box", 3 stoppers.
7. Team's climbing hours: 77, days: 3 — preparation, 4 — ascent.
8. Overnights — 3 on snow ledges in a tent.

Brief historical and geographical outline of the Ganga Khairym valley.

The Ganga Khairym valley has attracted mountaineers since the very beginning of the development of the Tunkin Goltsy. Here is located the highest point of the ridge — 3284 m, Mount Strelnikova, named after one of the border guards who died during the military conflict on Damansky Island in 1969. Who was the first to ascend it is not established. The valley is referred to by different names on various maps:

• Ganga Khairym,
• Ganga Khairym. In the mountaineering community, the valley has historically been known as Khairym. In the 1960s, a group of Irkutsk mountaineers made the first ascent of the 3187 m peak. The first to reach the summit was Starkov, and with his arms raised and the exclamation: "The summit is ours!", he fell flat on the summit snowdrift. (V. "Desirable, ferocious, beautiful".) The snowdrift was a wind-blown cornice that collapsed into the Bi valley cirque along with the first ascendant. 3187 came to be known as Starkov Peak. Between 1970 and 1979, there were several mountaineering events in the Ganga Khairym valley. In November 1974, the last mountaineering event took place in this area. In 1974, during a mountaineering event on the peak named after Stanevich A.M. (who made the first ascent in 1973), Rabnovskaya Tamara Alyussanovna (Propltagas) died in an avalanche.

Ascent passport to the summit

Ascent Certificate for the Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope, category 3B.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
2. Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. The route is characterized by rocky terrain.
5. Elevation gain 400 m, distance 1130 m, traverse distance 0.5 km on the map, average slope — traverse.
6. 27 rock and wired pitons used.
7. Team's total climbing time — 10 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team members:

Ascent passport to the summit of Tamara (Gadzhi) 3141 m, via the Eastern slope, cat. 2B

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Gang Hai­rym val­ley, sec­tion 6.1.2. 2. Tamara (Gadzhi) peak, 3141 m, via the Eastern slope. 3. Proposed cat. 2B, third ascent. 4. The route is rock­i­fy. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 350 m, length 580 m, aver­age steep­ness 45°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and stop­pers 27 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 10 h. 8. No over­night stays on the route.
2. First group: Stane­vich A. M. 2nd sports class P­lot­ni­kov N. K. 2nd sports class First ascent per­formed on 7 Au­gust 1973. Sec­ond group:

Ascent record of v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

1. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Vtoraya Shikhtolayka valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK peak, 2213 m, via North Ridge. 3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type: rock. 5. Height difference 100 m, length 117 m, average slope 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 h. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Team: Afanasiev A.E. MS Zhambalov Ts.B. badge Karelov P.S. 3rd class Lisov M.A. 3rd class Lipendin I.A. badge Makarov R.V. 3rd class Shvetsov I.V. 3rd class
2. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS
3. Ascent to the summit and descent on August 24, 2015.

Route description to v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

From the base camp at the forest boundary between Dozhdevoye and 2nd Shikhtolayka valleys to

Ascent Report

To the summit of Trekhglavaya (2611 m) via the right buttress of the Eastern wall (first ascent), Eastern Sayan Range, November 2011

Irkutsk — 2011. Ascent Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Summit — Trekhglavaya Severaya 2611 m. Route — Right buttress of the Eastern wall. Proposed category — 3A. First ascent Route character — rock. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain 661 m,
• route length about 1170 m,
• average slope 51°. Left on the route — pitons 0. Used pitons on the route: 23, including:

Ascent Record

Climbing category: technical. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Ridge. Route: first ascent via the central counterfort of the eastern wall of the Northern tower of v. Trekhglavaya. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 55°. Number of pitons: rock 23 pcs., ice none, bolted none. Duration 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: none. Leader: Akhmedzhanov S.N., 1st sports category. Team members: Belov S.V., 1st sports category; Galygo A.N., 1st sports category; Donskoy K.D., 1st sports category; Zuev V.A., 1st sports category; Savin V.V., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N., Master of Sports, instructor. Date of ascent: March 4, 1980, Irkutsk ¹

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkin Goltsy;
2. Peak — Trekhg­laya Peak, North Peak via route: Right buttress of the North face
3. Height: 2560 m.
4. Category difficulty is expected, first ascent.
5. Route type — combined.
6. Height difference — 650 m. Route length — 900 m. Average slope — 50°
7. Number of placed cams (piton) — 20 (3).