Ascent passport to the summit of Tamara (Gadzhi) 3141 m, via the Eastern slope, cat. 2B

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Gang Hai­rym val­ley, sec­tion 6.1.2. 2. Tamara (Gadzhi) peak, 3141 m, via the Eastern slope. 3. Proposed cat. 2B, third ascent. 4. The route is rock­i­fy. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 350 m, length 580 m, aver­age steep­ness 45°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and stop­pers 27 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 10 h. 8. No over­night stays on the route.

2. First group: Stane­vich A. M. 2nd sports class

P­lot­ni­kov N. K. 2nd sports class

First ascent per­formed on 7 Au­gust 1973.

Sec­ond group:

• Stane­vich A.M. CMS
• Stane­vich E.A. 3rd sports class

Sec­ond ascent per­formed on 16 Au­gust 1998.

Third group:

10. Coach Afa­n­asyev A.E. MS
11. Ascent to the sum­mit and re­turn on 5 Sep­tem­ber 2014.

The first as­cen­ders and pi­oneers of this route are con­sid­ered:

• Stane­vich A.M.
• P­lot­ni­kov N.K.

De­scrip­tion of the as­cent route to the sum­mit of Tamara (Gadzhi), 3141 m, via the Eastern slope, cat. 2B

Ap­proach along the Gang Hai­rym val­ley from the base camp at Bi­ryu­zo­voe Lake Gan­ga straight north and cir­cum­vent­ing from the south through tun­dra moss and sim­ple talus to the East­ern ridge and fur­ther un­der the rocks of the East­ern slope takes 2 hours. The be­gin­ning of the route is at 2790 m. The slope con­sists of de­stroyed gneiss rock slabs with an over­all steep­ness of 45° with a ledge in the mid­dle sec­tion on the left — up to the right.

Sec. 0–1 150 m. 40° I+ De­stroyed rocks up to 2875 m. Sec. 1–2 55 m. 50° III– Gneiss rocks with sharp edges. Along the in­ner cor­ner, in the up­per part tran­si­tion left to the ex­ter­nal cor­ner. Fur­ther, the gen­eral di­rec­tion is up­wards to the right through a sys­tem of ledges and rocks prac­ti­cally be­fore the East­ern slope. If there is snow, over­com­ing the trans­verse path may be­come eas­i­er.

Sec. 2–3 15 m. 40° II+ From the cor­ner to the right along the ledge.

Sec. 3–4 30 m. 55° IV– Rocks up­wards. Piton pro­tec­tion.

Sec. 4–5 15 m. 45° III– Slab to the right.

Sec. 5–6 35 m. 45° II+ Rocks up to 2956 m.

Sec. 6–7 30 m. 50° III– Up­wards through rocks. Piton pro­tec­tion.

Sec. 7–8 30 m. 40° II– Ledge to the right up to 2989 m. Al­ter­nate move­ment. Pro­tec­tion through out­crops and stop­pers.

Sec. 8–9 40 m. 45° III– Slabs up­wards to the right. Al­ter­nate­ly. Sec. 9–10 40 m. 40° II – Talus ledge to the right. Al­ter­nate­ly. Sec. 10–11 80 m. 60° IV+ – From the ledge, not reach­ing the ridge by 30 me­tres, left up­wards with exit to the North-East­ern ridge, lo­cat­ed to­wards the sum­mit of Star­kov.

Sec. 11–12 70 m. 5° III– Along the ridge be­tween the W slope and N wall to the sum­mit.

Exit to the sum­mit. Sum­mit height:

• QPS – 3088
• by al­ti­me­ter — 3105 m
• on M 1:25 000 map — 3141 m

De­scent via the as­cent path: 2 ab­seils and 6 sport de­scent. On the sport de­scent the last one climbed down.

In 1970–1979, a group of Ir­kutsk moun­taineers, in­clud­ing Stane­vich, Ne­mi­rov­sk­iy, Egor­ov and oth­ers, gave the peak the work­ing name Gadzhi, sim­i­lar to the name of the Gadzhir mountain in the area of the Du­g­o­ba al­pine camp. On 6 No­vem­ber 1974, dur­ing an al­pin­i­ad, Ry­ab­tsovsk­aya Tamara died on the de­scribed route. We pro­pose to name this moun­tain Tamara in mem­o­ry of the trag­i­cal­ly de­ceased 20-year-old clim­ber from An­garsk.

The com­plex­i­ty and dan­ger of the route changes de­pend­ing on the pres­ence and con­di­tion of the snow cov­er. Snow in­creas­es the dan­ger but re­duc­es the com­plex­i­ty of this route. In the 2014 sea­son, the route seemed to the clim­bers as cat. 3B. The first as­cen­ders, due to the dis­tance in time, re­mem­bered that the route cor­re­sponds to cat. 2A. We pro­pose to ac­cept for clas­si­fi­ca­tion in sec­tion 6.1.2.

Tamara (Gadzhi) via E slope 2B rock. Stane­vich, 1973.

Route map to peak Tamara.

Pro­file pho­to right.

Pan­or­am­ic view of Gang from south-east from a he­li­cop­ter.

Tamara from the south.

Sec­tion R2–R3.

Sec­tion R5–R6.

Sec­tion R7–R8.

Sec­tion R8–R9

Sec­tion R9–R10

From above. Sec­tion R10–R11. On the sum­mit of Tamara.