Photo 2. Area map of the ascent TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FIRST ASCENT ON V.SOAN

Brief explanation for the table

The route is a combined rock and snow route. Its first part is a rocky counterfort divided by a snowy horizontal belt into 2 bastions. The top of the 2nd bastion has overhanging rocks. The rocks are composed of gneisses with weak vertical jointing and a ribbed weathering surface with an external inclination of holds. The second part of the route is a steep snow lying on icy rocks and slabs. The snow condition makes it impossible to use an ice axe for belay. 20 m to the right of the lower part of the counterfort, at the start of the route, is a clearly visible wide gully.

• R0–R1. 2 ropes of medium and difficult climbing, with overhangs in places (photos 3,4); at the top, there is an icy crack-chimney (2 m).
• R1 rope - deviating to the right - along snowy blocky rocks. Exit to steep snowy rocks.

46

SOAN Peak (2952 m)

The route along the South wall (approx. 5A cat. diff.) - SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in a lateral spur of the Tunkin Range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains between the Zuun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. The most studied and interesting mountaineering routes to SOAN peak start from the Zuun-Khandagai valley. The Sayan rivers are frozen from November to mid-May. Ice fields and icings remain until mid-July, and snow persists in some valleys until August. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July, are deep, and lifeless. There is no glaciation in the Sayan region. The most favorable months for ascent are:

• June,
• July,
• first half of August.

Approach

14 a 3­¹­²

Murapimga

Ascent record for Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall, rated 3B category.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall.
3. Rated 3B category, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 350 m, length 570 m, average slope 50°.
6. Number of pitons: rock and wired 29 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team: Afanasyev A.E. MS

First Ascent Report

About the First Ascent

Yanichara Peak (2520 m) — Southwest Ridge — 3A category route (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Kuzmenko I.M.
• Kolosov A.D.
• Kazantseva E.V.
• Pechenin K.V.

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the first ascent

Peak Yanichar (2520 m) — Southeast ridge — Route 3B cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Kharimta gorge, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Drulis A.M.
• Lipchenko A.V.
• Oseev D.N.
• Pechenin K.V.
• Buinevich A.A.
• Matveychuk E.O.

Report on the First Ascent

About the First Ascent

Yanichar Peak (2520 m) — South face of the Southwest ridge. The name of the route is “Щель” (Gap). The route is 4A category of difficulty (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2. Team leader: Klepitov A.A. Participants:

• Kuzmenko I.M.
• Kolosov A.D.
• Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on August 13, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport