Description of the Traverse Climb of the South and Central Towers of "Trehglavaya" via Route 1B Category of Difficulty

The "Trehglavaya" peak closes the Right Kyngarga cirque from the south with its "North Tower". It is the most beautiful peak in the area. The height of the "South Tower" is 2511 meters above sea level, while the "Central" and "North" towers are slightly higher.

1. "Druzhba" campsite,
2. "Arshan" campsite,
3. "Bronenosets" campsite,
4. "Piramida" campsite,
5. "Obzorny" campsite,
6. "Bratchanka" campsite,
7. "9 Maya" campsite,

Traverse of South Tower v. Trekhlavaya via 1B category difficulty route, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan

1. Geographical information

The v. Trekhlavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur serving as a watershed for the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction. The highest point is 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Kharym river gorge. The ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The v. Trekhlavaya massif consists of three towers — South, Central, and North. The highest is Central, with an elevation of 2511 m above sea level. The height of the South Tower is 2486 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers, it takes 4 hours to ascend the gorge.

2. Route description

Route Description

Via the south-eastern buttress of the Central peak of Trekhglavaya (2511 m) Group composition: leader Laptev N.K., Belousov V.M., Vorobyova N.P., Boyarkina Z.M. Date of ascent — 2–3 May 1972 The group set out on the route at 6:00 from the base camp in the direction of the huge canyon separating the Central and Southern peaks of Trekhglavaya. The base camp is conveniently located on the edge of the forest on the southern side of the cirque under the peak. The path initially goes with a slight gain in height, and then turns into a steep fine and medium scree. To start the route, it is necessary to:

• Enter the canyon
• Ascend along it, alongside the wall of the buttress, to a huge boulder protruding from under the snow (in summer — from under the scree) See photo I. The protruding boulder, having a diameter of 8 meters, is located 40–50 m from the lower point of the buttress and is not covered by snow even in winter. At this point, the altitude reading was 1900 m.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.

56a

Route Description

on the East face of the Central Spire of TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak (2511 m). Group composition: Leader B. M. Belousov, V. M. Kharlamov, N. K. Laptev, Z. M. Boyarkina. Ascent dates: May 5-7, 1972. The group departed from the base camp, located at the forest boundary (≈1700 m), at 6:00 AM towards the lower part of the Central Spire's wall. The approach to the route's starting point takes 40-50 minutes. The route begins approximately 60 meters to the left and above the wall's lowest point, which transitions into scree without flattening. See photos 1, 3. The R0-R1 section follows a small counterfort protruding from the wall, with heavily fragmented rocks. See photo 3. Insurance is set up alternately through ledges. Be cautious of numerous loose rocks. The slope's steepness is 50°. Monolithic rocks follow oblique shelves, transitioning into an ascent to the upper part of this protruding counterfort. At the top of this section, the group changed from crampons to "vibram" boots.

Brief Geographical Overview

of the TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area, travel to the area, and approach to the base camp. The TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Belki ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge stretches clearly from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

Ascent Record

Route: South peak of Trekhglaaya peak, 2511 m a.s.l., via South-Eastern buttress Proposed difficulty category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference 636 m, average slope 50°. Pitons used: rock 19 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. Duration: 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: 0. Leader: Krasnukhin L.I., 1st sports category. Team members: Zhila A.Yu., 1st sports category, Bolshedvorsky V.V., 1st sports category, Lebedev V.G., 1st sports category, Ponomarchuk V.S., 1st sports category, Mishchurinsky B.A., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N. Ascent date: March 7, 1978. Irkutsk

General view of Trekhglaaya peak

Route completed by the group

Previously climbed routes:

• 4B difficulty category

Traversing the North and Central Towers

Trekhglavaya Peak with ascent via the NE ridge of the North Tower via route category 2B

1. Geographic information

The Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunka Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as the watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. The Tunka Goltsy range is the highest in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of kilometers. Its highest point, 3266 meters above sea level, is located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. The range has sharp alpine forms overall. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The tree line on southern slopes is at 1880 m, and on northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. Snow cover largely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers: the South, Central, and North Towers. The highest is the Central Tower, at 2511 meters above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. It takes 4 hours to reach the Base Camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers from the resort (upstream along the gorge).

2. Route description

Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers

V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty

1. Geographical information

The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge).

2. Route description

As­cent pass­port to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N) 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. East­ern Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N), 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse. 3. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. 4. Route char­ac­ter — com­bined. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 1400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afa­nasiev S.A. III grade, Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the peak and re­turn on May 1, 2001. De­scrip­tion of the as­cent route to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C-N) 2557 m via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the re­verse traverse of the clas­si­fied route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhgla­vaya traverse, start­ing with the as­cent via S ridge. This route starts from the de­scend­ing couloir of east­ern ex­po­sure be­tween the peaks South­ern and Cen­tral Trekhgla­vaya. Here is the de­scent from all routes to the South­ern and Cen­tral peaks of Trekhgla­vaya, and some­times peo­ple de­scend af­ter as­cend­ing to the North­ern Trekhgla­vaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow cov­ered scree. Some­times it is ava­lanch­e-haz­ard­ous. The up­per part of the couloir is lo­cated in the nar­row rocky jaws of the South­ern and Cen­tral tow­ers and snow here some years per­sists till the end of sum­mer. Sec­tion R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Up­per part of the couloir. On the bridge snow cor­niche up to 2 m. Ropes. Sec­tion R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− As­cent to the Cen­tral tow­er of Trekhgla­vaya can be done by two vari­ants:

• first one via South­ern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons;
• sec­ond — left of the ridge via de­scend­ing path, one-two rope lengths. This sec­tion is the key one for the route 1B cat.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tunkinskaya via the route along the North ridge, approximately category 1B, by the team of the "Mountains of Baikal" club within the framework of the "Impossible is not forever" project, for the period from March 25, 2019 to March 25, 2019. Irkutsk 2019

I. Ascent Report