Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III

6.1.2. Irkutsk 2008. Scheme of the route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III.

Uzel Rebyonka	Length m	Steepness °	Difficulty	Number of pitons
	20	30	IIIБ
	40	60	IIIБ
	30	40	I-
	15	55	IIIБ
	10		V-

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A Irkutsk, 1971 Brief Geographical Characteristics The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Passport of the Ascent

1. (Eastern) Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
2. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge.

6.1 Eastern Sayan Charskiye зори, 2920 m 3Аz from North by 3 ridge Zhigalov А.V. October 23, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
3. Peak Charskiye зори, 2920 m from North by 3 ridge
4. Supposed — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 680 m.
• total length 1900 m.

As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge
2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion
3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.
4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route

Ascent Report

Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Ilyinsky V.A.
• Shcherban A.N.

2013

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
2. Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
3. Proposed — 5A — first ascent.

Report

on the first ascent to the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the "Dядя Саня" route on the wall of the North-Eastern ridge, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from June 28, 2019 to June 28, 2019. 2019

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS — Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area

The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.

Route description

From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Shishkina via the center of the South Face route, category 5A, by the team of the "Gory Baikala" club, from May 6, 2018, to May 6, 2018.

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Panova Alena Mikhailovna 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (MS)