Description of the Traverse Climb of the South and Central Towers of "Trehglavaya" via Route 1B Category of Difficulty
The "Trehglavaya" peak closes the Right Kyngarga cirque from the south with its "North Tower". It is the most beautiful peak in the area. The height of the "South Tower" is 2511 meters above sea level, while the "Central" and "North" towers are slightly higher.
- "Druzhba" campsite,
- "Arshan" campsite,
- "Bronenosets" campsite,
- "Piramida" campsite,
- "Obzorny" campsite,
- "Bratchanka" campsite,
- "9 Maya" campsite,
- "Trehglavaya" peak
The route is more conveniently approached through the "Trehglavaya" cirque. The path from the base camp, located at the confluence of the Left and Right Kyngarga rivers, to the start of the route takes 2-3 hours.
Section 1 (photo 1). The path along the eastern ridge of the "South Tower" to its summit takes 1.5-2 hours.
The ridge is straightforward, snow-covered. In the spring, before the summit ascent, one should be cautious of cornices (photo 2).
Section 2 (photo 1)
From the summit, a diagonal traverse is made down the snow-covered western slope to the saddle between the South and Central towers, reaching the throat of a wide couloir, clearly visible in photo 1, taking 20-30 minutes.
Section 3 (photo 3)
The ascent to the Central tower from the throat of the wide couloir is via easy rocks, staying to the left side of the ridge. The last three to four rope lengths have variable protection.
- Duration: 1-1.5 hours
- Photos: 4, 5
Section 4 (photo 3)
Descent to the saddle between the Central and South towers via the ascent route takes about 1 hour. Ropes are recommended in the upper part of this section.
- Photo: 5
Section 5 (photo 1)
Descent down the wide couloir between the Central and South towers through deep snow. In case of increased avalanche danger, descend to the start of the route via the South tower using the ascent path.
It should be noted that ascending via the couloir between the Central and South towers is physically more challenging than ascending via the South tower because:
- the couloir is always filled with deep, dry snow;
- it is difficult to assess the avalanche danger of the couloir from below.
The group that made the first ascent of the route consisted of:
- Palamarchuk S. - 2nd sports category
- Nemirovsky Yu. - 1st sports category
- Rivin Yu. - 3rd sports category
- Stom D. - 3rd sports category
Group equipment included standard gear, plus:
- 2-3 rock pitons
- 1 ice axe-hammer
The group assesses the route as a snow-rock 1B category of difficulty in winter conditions (from October to May inclusive). The route can be recommended to groups with experience on 1B category climbs.
Table of Main Route Characteristics
R0 
R2 