2

Route via the South-East Ridge (approximately 3A category of difficulty) The summit of SOAN (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the main ridge of the Tunka Alps — East Sayan. The Tunka Alps are stretched by a single ridge with spurs from west to east between the rivers Irkut and Kitoy. The summit itself is slightly protruding to the south along a spur sandwiched between the Zun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. To reach the base camp of the route via the South-East ridge, one needs to follow the Zun-Khandagai river valley. From November to mid-May, the rivers of the Sayan are frozen, and the valleys have shallow loose snow. By May, some open snowfields become firn, but the snow generally retains its looseness until it melts. Ice fields and aufeis can be found along the river valleys and persist until mid-July. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July. There is no glaciation in the summit area. The most favorable time for climbing:

• June
• July
• Early August

TRANSPORTATION

From Irkutsk, take a scheduled bus or a car to the Arshan resort — 218 km. From the Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai river valley (west along the mountain ridge) by car or on foot — 12 km. Up the Zun-Khandagai river valley on foot to the fork of the Left and Right Zun-Khandagai — 9 km. At the fork, it is convenient to set up a base camp, as it is located at the forest boundary. The river valley is narrow, with slopes heavily overgrown with forest and bushes. A faint trail runs along the valley, and it is recommended to inquire about its location with climbers from Irkutsk.

Brief Geographical Overview of the SOAN Peak Area

The SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge is clearly stretched from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

• to the south (in the Tunka valley) — into the Irkut River,
• to the north (in the Kitoi valley) — into the Kitoi River. Kitoi and Irkut are left tributaries of the Angara River. The Tunka valley has many mineral springs, one of which is Arshan, which has gained all-Union fame. The wildlife in the area is rich and diverse. The Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge is located on the territory of the Buryat ASSR. The SOAN peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

Climatological Information

Photo 2. Area map of the ascent TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FIRST ASCENT ON V.SOAN

Brief explanation for the table

The route is a combined rock and snow route. Its first part is a rocky counterfort divided by a snowy horizontal belt into 2 bastions. The top of the 2nd bastion has overhanging rocks. The rocks are composed of gneisses with weak vertical jointing and a ribbed weathering surface with an external inclination of holds. The second part of the route is a steep snow lying on icy rocks and slabs. The snow condition makes it impossible to use an ice axe for belay. 20 m to the right of the lower part of the counterfort, at the start of the route, is a clearly visible wide gully.

• R0–R1. 2 ropes of medium and difficult climbing, with overhangs in places (photos 3,4); at the top, there is an icy crack-chimney (2 m).
• R1 rope - deviating to the right - along snowy blocky rocks. Exit to steep snowy rocks.

46

SOAN Peak (2952 m)

The route along the South wall (approx. 5A cat. diff.) - SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in a lateral spur of the Tunkin Range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains between the Zuun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. The most studied and interesting mountaineering routes to SOAN peak start from the Zuun-Khandagai valley. The Sayan rivers are frozen from November to mid-May. Ice fields and icings remain until mid-July, and snow persists in some valleys until August. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July, are deep, and lifeless. There is no glaciation in the Sayan region. The most favorable months for ascent are:

• June,
• July,
• first half of August.

Approach

14 a 3­¹­²

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height — v. SOAN, 2952 m, ascent route — South wall
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 652 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 515 m
   • Average steepness of main sections — 72°

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Technical category
2. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge
3. V. Stol, via the left buttress of the NE wall
4. Proposed 6A category. First ascent
5. Height difference — 460 m, length 700 m, sections with 6th category difficulty — 141 m, average steepness — 75°.
6. Pitons left on the route: 10 bolted, 2 "carrots", 1 "box", 3 stoppers.
7. Team's climbing hours: 77, days: 3 — preparation, 4 — ascent.
8. Overnights — 3 on snow ledges in a tent.