South Siberian Mountains

Mountain range1,666,635.43 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent to the Shkolnaya peak via the North Ridge, category 1B, made by the beginner team of the "Mountains of Baikal" club.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SHKOLNAYA, VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE ROUTE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 1B DIFFICULTY, BY THE INITIAL TRAINING SCHOOL TEAM OF THE CLUB "GORY BAIKALA" FROM OCTOBER 15, 2018 TO OCTOBER 15, 2018 Irkutsk 2018

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports)
1.2Full names, sports ranks of the participantsBadryzlova Ksenia Sergeevna, Medvedeva Anna Gennadievna, Lavellina Natalia Vladimirovna, Kalashnikov Andrey Yurievich, Kozyreva Alena Timofeevna, Belskaya Anna Andreevna, Mishin Alexander Yurievich, Donicheva Nadezhda Sergeevna, Sergelen Dugerjav, Ivanne Sanchez, Plyatsko Olga Vasilievna, Pozhitkov Sergey Igorevich
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Ascent to the summit Energetik in Tunkinskie Goltsy via the Western ridge, category of complexity 1B, first ascent, 2004.

Ascent Passport.

  1. East Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, section 6.1.
  2. Energetik peak, via the Western ridge.
  3. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
  4. The route is rocky in nature.
  5. Height difference 200 m, length 550 m, average slope 25 °.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 4 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
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Description of the first ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. (2391 m) via the couloir of the Southwest wall, complexity category 2A.

Pas­sport of as­cent to the sum­mit Ar­kov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Bu­go­toy val­ley, sec­tion 6.1. Sum­mit Ar­kov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. Route char­ac­ter is rocky. Height dif­fer­ence 200 m, length 420 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°. Pitons driv­en: rocky and stop­pers 7 pcs. Team's mov­ing hours — 5 h. No over­night stays on the route. Group: Afa­na­siev A.E. MS, Ba­ru­lin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Gei­da­rov K.G. 2nd sports rank,

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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Zagorulko S.A. (2428 m) along the Southern ridge, category 2A complexity.

As­cent pass­port to the peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A. 2428 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level 1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Bu­go­toy valley, sec­tion 6.1.

  1. Peak Za­go­rul­ko S.A., 2428 m, via South ridge.
  2. Pro­posed cat. 2A diff. level, first as­cent.
  3. Na­ture of the route is rocky.
  4. Ele­va­tion gain 200 m, length 400 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°.
  5. Pit­ons driv­en: rocky and place­ment type 4 pcs.
  6. Team's walk­ing hours — 5 h.
  7. No over­night stays on the route.
  8. Group:
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Description of the first ascent to the summit Golendukhin A.L. (2441 m) via the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Sayan, Tunka Mountains.

Pas­sport as­cen­sion to the sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 1B diff. level 1. East­ern Sa­yan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Tal­ta val­ley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L., 2441 m, via South ridge. 3. Pro­posed 1B diff. level, first as­cen­sion. 4. Na­ture of the route — rocky. 5. Ele­va­tion gain 200 m, length 450 m, aver­age steep­ness 40°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 4 pcs. 7. Team's walk­ing hours — 4 h. 8. No over­night stays on the route. 9. Team: Apha­na­siev A.E. MS Isa­en­ko M.Yu. nov. Me­zrin E.V. nov. Mu­ko­vkin A.N. nov. Ni­ko­la­ev V.A. nov. Sta­syuk P.N. nov. Te­ren­tiev N.S. nov. Sher­shak E.M. nov. 10. Coach Apha­na­siev A.E. MS 11. As­cen­sion to the sum­mit and re­turn on Sep­tem­ber 21, 2007 De­scrip­tion of the first as­cen­sion route to the sum­mit Go­len­du­khin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level.

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Description of a 5th category rock climbing route to the peak 2676 m in the Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai area.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
  3. Peak 2676 m via NE ridge from Snezhnij pass
  4. Assumed — first ascent, category III complexity
  5. Route characteristics:
  • elevation gain — 376 m.
  • total length 550 m.
  • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m, 4th category — 130 m, 3rd category — 40 m, 1st category — 300 m.
  • average slope: entire route — 60°.
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Climbing route description to the peak Baruun in Tunkinskiye Goltsy, including approaches, logic and recommendations for groups.

Passing the section R4–R5 Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on the crux. The summit, station behind a boulder

Approaches.

From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire

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### Climbing Route Description to the Summit (2678 m) Detailed characteristics table and recommendations for descent and required equipment.

Schematic map of the ascent area

TABLE MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.

DateDesignationAvg. steepness in degreesLength in metersTerrain characteristicsDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsPitons
I23456789—II
May 3, 19800—I50120 mslope1—2broken rocks, snowy ledgescloudy, calmoutcrops
I—26580 mwalls up to 12–20 m3—4snow-covered monolithic blocky rocks7
5580 mslope, walls1—2snow-covered destroyed rocksoutcrops
2—36540 mwall3snow-covered blocky rocks3
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Route Description: В кф.

SummitMateSSummitMate
18 days ago

Ascent to the summit V. 2768 via the northwestern ridge with elements of rock climbing.

В. 2768

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of General Koryakov (3032 m) along the south-west ridge, complexity category 1, Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy.

As­cent pass­port to the ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ula­gol gul­ly, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via North­ern slope. 3. Pro­posed cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty, first as­cent. 4. Char­ac­ter of the route is rocky. 5. Al­ti­tude dif­fer­ence 630 m. dis­tance 950 m. av­er­age steep­ness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stop­pers 11 pcs. 7. Team's work­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No biv­ou­acs on the route. 9. Group: Ak­syo­nov A.V. CMS, Vas­il­yev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vi­no­gra­dov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Go­lo­vin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Gey­da­rov K.G. 3rd sports rank, March­u­kov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn April 30, 2010.

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