South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent to the Shkolnaya peak via the North Ridge, category 1B, made by the beginner team of the "Mountains of Baikal" club.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SHKOLNAYA, VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE ROUTE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 1B DIFFICULTY, BY THE INITIAL TRAINING SCHOOL TEAM OF THE CLUB "GORY BAIKALA" FROM OCTOBER 15, 2018 TO OCTOBER 15, 2018 Irkutsk 2018
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports) |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the participants | Badryzlova Ksenia Sergeevna, Medvedeva Anna Gennadievna, Lavellina Natalia Vladimirovna, Kalashnikov Andrey Yurievich, Kozyreva Alena Timofeevna, Belskaya Anna Andreevna, Mishin Alexander Yurievich, Donicheva Nadezhda Sergeevna, Sergelen Dugerjav, Ivanne Sanchez, Plyatsko Olga Vasilievna, Pozhitkov Sergey Igorevich |
Route Description: З гребню
Ascent to the summit Energetik in Tunkinskie Goltsy via the Western ridge, category of complexity 1B, first ascent, 2004.
Ascent Passport.
- East Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, section 6.1.
- Energetik peak, via the Western ridge.
- Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
- The route is rocky in nature.
- Height difference 200 m, length 550 m, average slope 25 °.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired 4 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 4 hours.
Route Description: кулуару ЮЗ стены
Description of the first ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. (2391 m) via the couloir of the Southwest wall, complexity category 2A.
Passport of ascent to the summit Arkov V.V. 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir, cat. 2A, diff. cat. 1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Bugotoy valley, section 6.1. Summit Arkov V.V., 2391 m, via the South-West wall couloir. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent. Route character is rocky. Height difference 200 m, length 420 m, average steepness 40°. Pitons driven: rocky and stoppers 7 pcs. Team's moving hours — 5 h. No overnight stays on the route. Group: Afanasiev A.E. MS, Barulin A.G. 3rd sports rank, Geidarov K.G. 2nd sports rank,
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Zagorulko S.A. (2428 m) along the Southern ridge, category 2A complexity.
Ascent passport to the peak Zagorulko S.A. 2428 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level 1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Bugotoy valley, section 6.1.
- Peak Zagorulko S.A., 2428 m, via South ridge.
- Proposed cat. 2A diff. level, first ascent.
- Nature of the route is rocky.
- Elevation gain 200 m, length 400 m, average steepness 40°.
- Pitons driven: rocky and placement type 4 pcs.
- Team's walking hours — 5 h.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the first ascent to the summit Golendukhin A.L. (2441 m) via the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Sayan, Tunka Mountains.
Passport ascension to the summit Golendukhin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 1B diff. level 1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Talta valley, section 6.1. 2. Summit Golendukhin A.L., 2441 m, via South ridge. 3. Proposed 1B diff. level, first ascension. 4. Nature of the route — rocky. 5. Elevation gain 200 m, length 450 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 4 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 4 h. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Team: Aphanasiev A.E. MS Isaenko M.Yu. nov. Mezrin E.V. nov. Mukovkin A.N. nov. Nikolaev V.A. nov. Stasyuk P.N. nov. Terentiev N.S. nov. Shershak E.M. nov. 10. Coach Aphanasiev A.E. MS 11. Ascension to the summit and return on September 21, 2007 Description of the first ascension route to the summit Golendukhin A.L. 2441 m, via South ridge, cat. 2A diff. level.
Route Description: СВ ребру от пер. Снежный
Description of a 5th category rock climbing route to the peak 2676 m in the Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai area.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — rock climbing
- Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
- Peak 2676 m via NE ridge from Snezhnij pass
- Assumed — first ascent, category III complexity
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain — 376 m.
- total length 550 m.
- length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m, 4th category — 130 m, 3rd category — 40 m, 1st category — 300 m.
- average slope: entire route — 60°.
Route Description: СВ ребру от пер. Снежный
Climbing route description to the peak Baruun in Tunkinskiye Goltsy, including approaches, logic and recommendations for groups.
Passing the section
R4–R5
Passing the crux R5–R6. The "fly swatter" on
the crux.
The summit, station behind a boulder
Approaches.
From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the moraine cushion, leaving the peaks Neftehimik, Monah, and Ch. Zori to the left. Further along the moraine ridge, we bypass the lower lake and gain altitude, heading to the right towards the peaks Baruun and Uzlovaya. The entire
Route Description: В кф.
### Climbing Route Description to the Summit (2678 m) Detailed characteristics table and recommendations for descent and required equipment.
Schematic map of the ascent area
TABLE
MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO V.2678 m.
| Date | Designation | Avg. steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9—II |
| May 3, 1980 | 0—I | 50 | 120 m | slope | 1—2 | broken rocks, snowy ledges | cloudy, calm | outcrops |
| I—2 | 65 | 80 m | walls up to 12–20 m | 3—4 | snow-covered monolithic blocky rocks | 7 | ||
| 55 | 80 m | slope, walls | 1—2 | snow-covered destroyed rocks | outcrops | |||
| 2—3 | 65 | 40 m | wall | 3 | snow-covered blocky rocks | 3 |
Route Description: В кф.
Ascent to the summit V. 2768 via the northwestern ridge with elements of rock climbing.
В.
2768
Route Description: Ю склону ЮЗ гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of General Koryakov (3032 m) along the south-west ridge, complexity category 1, Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy.
Ascent passport to the vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III difficulty. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Ulagol gully, section 6.1. 2. Vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via Northern slope. 3. Proposed cat. III difficulty, first ascent. 4. Character of the route is rocky. 5. Altitude difference 630 m. distance 950 m. average steepness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stoppers 11 pcs. 7. Team's working hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Group: Aksyonov A.V. CMS, Vasilyev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vinogradov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Golovin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Geydarov K.G. 3rd sports rank, Marchukov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS. 11. Ascent to the summit and return April 30, 2010.